By Analiese Paik

The season for sweet, Gulf of Maine shrimp is here but a lot has changed since last year. Quotas set by the the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission have been reduced by 50% to 2,000 metric tons this season, thereby creating tight supplies and higher prices. Such quotas are necessary to avoid overfishing and possible depletion of fish stocks. Tom Pennimon of Pemaquid Lobster & Seafood spoke with me today from a shrimp boat in New Harbor, Mass. saying that they’d caught over 1,500 pounds today, but due to such a drastic reduction in supply, Pemaquid will be selling shrimp for three weeks only in Connecticut.

Pemaquid is a vendor at the Winter Farmers’ Market at Norfield Grange and will be selling fresh whole Maine shrimp with the shell and head on for $2.50-$3.00 a pound, perhaps some with the heads off, and shelled (meat only) for 8.99 a pound for three Saturdays only – February 11, 18 and 25. The best value by far is shrimp with the shell and head on. Cooking the shrimp intact gives it  much better flavor and texture too. If your eaters refuse to deal with whole shrimp, peel and dehead the shrimp yourself and save the shells for shrimp stock. They freeze well.

Cook these sweet and petite, seasonal delicacies briefly in highly salted water (no other seasonings please!) until they’re just firm, then crowd around the table for a feast. Add a simple farmers’ market salad and a fresh loaf of bread and you have a meal. This season I’m going to try gently poaching the shrimp both in a mild and infused olive oil from Olivette. I’m concerned that any assertive flavors will overpower the shrimp, so this is an experiment. A few recipes can be found on Pemaquid’s website. How do you cook your Maine shrimp?

Editor’s Note: In 2012 one of our main goals is to help our readers get back in the kitchen cooking seasonally inspired meals for themselves and their families. Welcome to Back to the Kitchen, our seasonal, home cooking series where you will find tried and true recipes and techniques using locally sourced and sustainable ingredients.

By Jennifer Spaide

Frittatas are a quick and easy way to serve up a tasty meal that makes use of leftovers.  You can use any veggies on hand, but seasonal leafy greens, like kale, add a nice heartiness, as does the addition of leftover whole wheat spaghetti (although any type of pasta or grain would do).  Be sure to use an oven-proof sauté pan as moving effortlessly from stovetop to oven is key to your frittata’s success.

Make a frittata to turn leftovers into a quick meal.

Kale & Spaghetti Frittata

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

1. 8 large eggs
2. ¼ cup milk or water
3. ½ red onion, chopped
4. 2 cups cooked kale, coarsely chopped
5. 2 cups whole wheat spaghetti, coarsely chopped
6. 1 cup gruyere* cheese, grated

Leftover cooked kale and spaghetti plus some freshly chopped red onion add flavor, texture, color and nutrition to this dish.

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 400˚.
2. Whisk the eggs and milk together, along with a pinch of salt and pepper.  Set aside.
3. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.  Drizzle in two tablespoons of olive oil.  Add the onions and sauté for 3-5 minutes, until translucent.
4. Add the greens and pasta, and mix well.
5. Pour in the whisked eggs and stir gently to distribute evenly.  Sprinkle the cheese on top.  Cook the frittata on the stovetop for 3-5 minutes, until the eggs have started to set on the bottom and around the edges.
6. 

   Add the egg and stir, top with cheese,cook until it's set on the bottom, then put it in the oven to finish cooking.

   Transfer your sauté pan to the preheated oven and bake until golden on top and set all the way through, about 10 more minutes.

7. 

   The frittata is done when it's set up (no runny egg) and golden on top.

   Remove pan from oven and let cool for 5-10 minutes before gently sliding your frittata out onto a serving platter.  Slice and serve.

*Feel free to substitute the gruyere for cheddar, goat, feta, or any other cheese you prefer.

Kale frittata is a quick, healthy, and delicious one-skillet meal.

Jennifer Spaide is a natural foods chef, writer, and mother. Spaide received her Masters in Human Nutrition at Columbia University and attended culinary school at The Institute of Culinary Education in New York City. Jennifer grew up with an innate appreciation for fresh-from-the-garden foods and wants to share that passion with others. Her online magazine, Simplicious, gives readers fresh recipes that are healthy and easy to prepare, bites of tasty information that help bring health into the home, and breaks down complex topics into easily digestible table-talk that even the kids will understand. In addition to her magazine, Spaide maintains a bi-monthly column in the New Canaan Advertiser, and continues to work as a freelance writer and recipe developer. www.simpliciousmag.com.

By Analiese Paik

A steaming pot of beans means endless mealtime possibilities including a snack of beans topped with grated cheese.

It’s time celebrate the bean. This lowly legume has a reputation as peasant food, but it’s a comfort food in our house and my go-to solution for quick meals. Beans are easy to cook and will come out great if you follow my Golden Rules. Once cooked, beans are both versatile and delicious. Serve them as a side dish with pork, a main dish with rice and a vegetable, in a burrito, as soup, and in chili.

I suppose beans got their peasant reputation from being relatively inexpensive compared to other proteins. With all of us watching our budgets, figuring out ways to serve family-friendly meals on Meatless Mondays, and searching for leftovers that actually reheat well day after day, reaching for beans is a no-brainer. Additionally, groundbreaking research has revealed that the iron in beans is more readily absorbed by the body than iron supplements or the iron found in meat, making it a top food choice for anyone suffering from iron deficiency, the most common nutrient deficiency worldwide and the most common nutrient deficiency in children.

Besides the superior taste and texture of home-cooked beans, they’re also healthier than canned beans containing bisphenol-A (BPA) in their linings. BPA is a known endocrine disruptor commonly found in the lining of canned foods and made headlines when it was banned in baby bottles and sippy cups in 10 US states. Some companies, like Eden Foods, never put BPA in their liners. It’s not just canned beans that can expose you to BPA, it’s all canned foods. Prevention Magazine recently published a list of 7 Foods That Should Never Cross Your Lips and canned tomatoes topped the list because their linings contain BPA and the acidic nature of tomates causes it to leach. Choose jarred tomatoes instead, a product available at farmers’ markets. Visit this post on TreeHugger for a list of retailers and food manufacturers that use BPA-free cans.

Don’t wait for the FDA to finish its “in-depth studies” in order to make a determination about whether to ban BPA on March 31; take steps to avoid it now. Canada declared BPA toxic in 2010 and regulates its use in food and consumer products. The FDA is way behind as usual. This excerpt from the FDA’s website should get you motivated to avoid canned food with BPA in their liners (you will not find any such information on the cans.)

“….both the National Toxicology Program at the National Institutes of Health and FDA have some concern about the potential effects of BPA on the brain, behavior, and prostate gland in fetuses, infants, and young children. In cooperation with the National Toxicology Program, FDA’s National Center for Toxicological Research is carrying out in-depth studies to answer key questions and clarify uncertainties about the risks of BPA.”

Now, back to making beans. Follow these simple rules and you won’t go wrong. Beans are cheapest when purchased in bulk and one of the widest selections is available in the bulk aisle at Whole Foods Market, including an enticing line of heirloom beans from Cayuga Pure Organics in New York state.

The Golden Rules of Cooking Beans

1. Always soak dried beans overnight in water.
2. Always rinse beans before cooking.
3. Never boil beans or they will crack and break.
4. Always skim off the foam that rises to the top.
5. Never add salt until they are tender.
6. Do not drain excess cooking water after the beans are done.
7. Season beans with aromatics and spices during or after cooking.

Anyone who wants to quibble about my Golden Rules is welcome to comment below. There’s scientific research and/or common sense behind each one, not to mention firsthand experience!

Basic Bean Recipe

Homemade burritos start with a pot of beans and can be as simple as this version with roasted and peeled Poblano chiles, a dusting of Beaver Brook Farm's raw, aged sheep's milk cheese (Pleasant Valley) and a splash of sriracha sauce on a whole wheat organic tortilla.

Time: overnight soaking plus at least 2 hours for cooking

Servings: 6-8 as a main dish, 12 as a side dish or snack

Ingredients:

1. 3 cups dried beans – black, pinto, cannellini, navy, or heirloom varietal

Preparation:

1. Measure out beans, place in a single layer on a cutting board or sheet pan, and remove any damaged beans or foreign objects. The light background of a cutting board provides a contrast that makes this easier.
2. Rinse the beans, place them in a medium bowl and cover  with cold water until it rises above the level of the beans by 4 inches. They beans will absorb the water and expand to fill the bowl. Leave them undisturbed overnight or at least 6 hours.
3. When ready to cook the beans (within 24 hours of beginning the soak), drain and rinse them, then place them in a cast iron French Oven (Le Creuset) or other sturdy pot with a lid that’s large enough to hold the beans and enough water to cover them by 2 inches.
4. Add cold water to cover the beans by 2 inches, cover with a lid, and turn heat to medium to bring it to a boil. Once the beans reach a full boil, immediately remove the lid and turn the heat down to a low simmer.
5. Take a metal or wooden spoon and skim the foam that rises to the top of the beans. Optional: If you wish to add aromatics like onion, celery and carrots to the pot, now’s the time. Just tie them up in a piece of cheesecloth so you can easily remove them when the beans are done. Add a fresh habanero or dried chipotle to the pot for a simple seasoning. Dried, ground chiles like Anchos, make a delicious addition along with some ground cumin and Mexican oregano.
6. Cook uncovered at barely a simmer until beans are soft, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours, depending on the bean. The beans should remain covered with water so add some fresh, cold water if necessary.
7. When the beans are tender, add salt and taste. Add more salt as necessary to bring out their flavor.
8. Serve with rice and a vegetable for lunch or dinner; spoon into a tortilla and top with roasted peppers, aged or fresh cheese, and some hot sauce to make a burrito; or spoon into a bowl and top with cheese for a quick snack. To make soup, remove and puree half the beans or puree the entire pot with an immersion blender.
9. Store leftover beans in their cooking liquid. When you reheat the beans, this liquid is your insurance against dried out or burned beans. Beans freeze well!

Editor’s Note: In 2012 one of our main goals is to help our readers get back in the kitchen cooking seasonally inspired meals for themselves and their families. Welcome to Back to the Kitchen, our seasonal, home cooking series where you will find tried and true recipes and techniques using locally sourced and sustainable ingredients.

By Jennifer Spaide

Don't be put off by celeriac's gnarly appearance. It's delicious raw, boiled or roasted.

Celery root, or celeriac, is the root of the wild celery plant, a cousin of the celery stalk we all know and love.  Its white flesh is earthy and mildly herbaceous, with undertones of celery, and offers a good source of vitamins and minerals like Vitamin C and potassium.

While it is similar in size and shape to a turnip, celery root’s knobby, gnarly appearance often lands it in the unwanted bin. But given its versatility and ease of preparation,  celeriac deserves a spot in our farmers’ market bag or grocery cart. Celeriac is delicious eaten raw- grated into slaws, salads, and remoulades.  It is also a wonderful alternative (or accompaniment) to potatoes- roasted, mashed, or used in gratins, soups and stews.

This hash is a stepped-up version of the diner standard.  While it’s delicious alongside your morning eggs, it also makes a hearty side dish for brunch, lunch or dinner.

Celery Root & Potato Hash

Serves 4

• 1 celery root, peeled & cut into 1/2 inch dice
• 2 russet potatoes (or whatever you find at the market), peeled & cut into 1/2 inch dice
• 3-4 slices bacon (optional), thinly sliced
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tsp thyme leaves, chopped
• extra virgin olive oil

Scrub and peel the celeriac with a knife, then cut it in 1/2 inch wide slices, then strips, then dice.

Place the diced celery root and potatoes in a small pot and cover with cold water.  Add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.  As soon as the pot boils, turn heat off, and drain the celery root and potato in a colander.  Set aside.

Add just enough water to the pan to cover the celeriac and potatoes.

Heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat.  Add the sliced bacon and cook until golden and crispy.  Remove bacon bits and drain on a paper towel.  Reserve.

The hash is done when both the potatoes and celeriac are browned and tender.

Add the onion to the sauté pan, season with salt and pepper and sauté until translucent, about 3-5 minutes.  Add the garlic and thyme leaves, sautéing another 1-2 minutes.  Then add the parboiled celery root and potatoes.  Sauté until the veggies are browned and tender.   Season with salt and pepper.  Top your hash with the bacon bits before serving.

Variation:  Sauté the sliced bacon in 2 tbsp olive oil, then toss with the remaining ingredients, spread out on a sheet pan and roast for 20-30 minutes, at 350˚, until golden brown.

While it’s delicious alongside your morning eggs, it also makes a hearty side dish for brunch, lunch or dinner.

Jennifer Spaide is a natural foods chef, writer, and mother. Spaide received her Masters in Human Nutrition at Columbia University and attended culinary school at The Institute of Culinary Education in New York City. Jennifer grew up with an innate appreciation for fresh-from-the-garden foods and wants to share that passion with others. Her online magazine, Simplicious, gives readers fresh recipes that are healthy and easy to prepare, bites of tasty information that help bring health into the home, and breaks down complex topics into easily digestible table-talk that even the kids will understand. In addition to her magazine, Spaide maintains a bi-monthly column in the New Canaan Advertiser, and continues to work as a freelance writer and recipe developer. www.simpliciousmag.com.

By Analiese Paik

Winter CSAs in Connecticut are rather uncommon, principally because most farms don’t produce enough to complete a share. Urban Oaks Farm, a 4-season organic farm in urban New Britain, Conn,. has teamed up with neighboring produce and fruit farmers to offer a 10-week winter CSA bursting with root vegetables, winter greens, and late fall fruit including apples and pears. Although Urban Oaks (UOF) grows some citrus fruit in their greenhouses, demand always outstrips supply. UOF completes shares by sourcing from trusted organic citrus growers.

Linda prepares sweet potato fries with broccoli pesto.

Any home cook committed to eating seasonally who cannot make it to a farmers’ market or a farm stand will enjoy the convenience of picking up a whole or half share winter CSA from UOF at GreenGourmetToGo. And if you don’t cook, simply can’t make time to cook, or need a way to ease into a flexitarian diet, sign up for GreenGourmettoGo’s CSK (Community Supported Kitchen). Linda Soper-Kolton, chef/owner of Green Gourmet to Go, on a never-ending quest to support healthy eating, will turn your weekly CSA box into ready-to-serve organic, vegetarian family meals. Weekly CSK shares will include vegetarian main dishes, soups, desserts, and treats chosen from a weekly menu. I’m signing up because I want my family to eat more plant-based meals and Linda’s well-seasoned dishes and healthy treats are popular in my house. You can try the CSK for a week to see if it’s a fit for your family, but be sure to give at least one week’s notice when signing up for future weeks so Linda can properly prepare.

Subscribe to the CSA only or to the CSA+CSK. Both optins are picked up at GreenGourmetToGo on Fairfield Avenue in Bridgeport (Black Rock section just over the Fairfield line).

Urban Oaks Farm Winter CSA (Community Supported Agriculture)

Each share will contain a combination of the following each week: seasonal root veggies like parsnips, beets, carrots, turnips, celeriac and potatoes, a variety of delicious greens, late harvest fruit (apples, pears) and beautiful herbs to freshen up your winter meals. Urban Oaks combines its own organic produce and what it sources locally and regionally to put together a box of organic goodness to keep you well-nourished even in the darkest days of winter.

• The program runs 10 weeks beginning the week of January 22 and runs through the end of March.
• Order your UOF Winter CSA through GreenGourmetToGo
• Weekly pick up at GreenGourmetToGo on Wednesdays.
• Full share price: $550, enough for a family of four.
• Half share price: $275, great for a family of two to three.
• Deadline for ordering: January 17
• How to order: Call 203.873.0057 or email linda@greengourmettogo.com
  

GreenGourmetToGo Farm CSK (Community Supported Kitchen)

When you participate in this CSK program, your UOF Winter CSA share gets delivered to GreenGourmetToGo where they transform it into delicious meals using additional ingredients and pantry items to complete their favorite recipes inspired by the seasonal contents of the box. You pick up your meals, which will include soups, main and side dishes and snacks and desserts to nourish and satisfy you and your family. A weekly menu is posted on the website soyou can choose dishes based on your preferences or dietary sensitivities.

• The program runs 10 weeks beginning the week of January 22 and running through the end of March.
• Order your GreenGourmetToGo CSK for all 10 weeks or a week at a time, with adequate notice of renewal.
• Weekly pick up at GreenGourmetToGo on Fridays or by special arrangement. Delivery available depending upon location.
• Weekly full share CSK price: $149, enough for a family of four.
• Weekly half share CSK price: $99, great for a family of two to three.
• Deadline for ordering: January 17 for week one orders, weekly notice thereafter
• How to order: Call 203.873.0057 or email linda@greengourmettogo.com
  

In the event you cannot eat all the CSK food, freeze the meals to enjoy stress-free dinners and lunches whenever you want.

Note that the Urban Oaks CSA must be paid in full (through GreenGourmetToGo). It is a commitment and investment in the farm for the remainder of the winter season (that’s what a CSA is all about!). For the CSK service, Linda asks for a minimum of two weeks’ notice to get on the food prep schedule, but in this pilot form over the winter, she is not requiring a minimum commitment or payment in full. She wants you to try the service and see how it works for your lifestyle. How’s that for flexibility?

GreenGourmetToGo

2984 Fairfield Avenue
Bridgeport, CT 06605
203.873-0057 (store)
203.615.8139 (cell)
www.GreenGourmetToGo.com

By Analiese Paik

Extra Virginity exposes a world of fraud and deception in the olive oil trade, but also lauds producers who continually sacrifices profits to make superior oil worthy of the EVOO label.

Some of us have never tasted real extra virgin olive oil. That’s the shocking realization I came to after reading Tom Mueller’s riveting new book, Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil. Mueller, story by incredible story, reveals the ugly truth behind a surprisingly large number of supermarket olive oils carrying the extra virgin grade and why they fail quality tests. The saddest part is that olive oil fraud, in some cases impossible to detect with even sophisticated laboratory equipment, is nothing new. Adulteration of good oil with cheap and tasteless seed and nut oils and deodorization of low quality olive oils is a fraud that has been perpetrated on consumers worldwide for millennium according to Mueller.

In Extra Virginity Mueller describes the olive oil trade in Roman times and how at Monte Testaccio “you knew from the label exactly what you were getting” in each amphora of oil. He explains how an enormous pile of ancient fragments at the site reveals that each amphora was carefully labeled with the producer, point of origin, importer, weight and quality, then sealed to prevent fraud. It’s incredible that the olive oil industry remains plagued today with the same problems that existed in Roman times. If your olive oil’s label doesn’t conform to the Monte Testaccio standards, you have a lot of questions to ask.

In this video, Mueller discusses fraudulent olive oil and ways to find real extra virgin olive oil.

Alilna fills a UV protected bottle with EVOO chosen by a customer after tasting several different varieties from around the world.

Enter Olivette. The timing of the opening of this boutique specializing in single varietal, single origin extra virgin olive oils (EVOO) from around the world is brilliant. At Olivette, you taste before you buy. Co-owner and General Manager Alina Lawrence said “This is a tasting room. You’re not going to go home and find out you didn’t like what you bought.” Gleaming stainless steel olive oil drums (fusti) line the walls and counters, each labeled in detail to provide tasters with complete product transparency, something unheard of in supermarket olive oil. The olive variety, date of crush, country of origin, awards received and a chemical analysis of the polyphenols, oleic acid, free fatty acids and peroxide levels – all determinations of quality and taste – are listed on each label. A low level of free fatty acids, for example, is desirable and is most common in oils that go from harvest to extraction within hours. Polyphenols are heart-healthy flavonoids naturally present in olive oil. Low free fatty acids are a sign of quality as are low peroxide levels, a product of oxidation.

At Olivette, you taste before you buy from gleaming stainless steel olive oil drums (fusti) lining the walls and counters, each labeled in detail to provide tasters with complete transparency, something unheard of in supermarket olive oil.

Small tasting cups stand at the ready next to each olive oil type, inviting customers to taste and compare, perhaps for the first time, fresh extra virgin olive oils made from  single cultivars from distinct places around the world. How do oils from Chile and Argentina compare to Australia and New Zealand? Can California oils compete with those from France, Greece, Italy, Portugal, and Spain? Do organic olive oils taste different? A note here: Olivette has chosen not to label organic oils to avoid prejudicing your choices. If you feel strongly about only choosing organic oils, ask a staff member to point them out to you.

Olivette carries honey, olives and other artisan foods that pair well with olive oil and vinegar.

“The higher the polyphenols, the more bitterness you feel in your throat” explained Alina as we began tasting down the line of EVOOs.  Starting with the delicate and creamy, award-winning Australian Ultra Hojiblanca (polyphenols: 120) we worked our way up to the medium-intensity California Arbosana (polyphenols: 101) crushed in November 2011 that tasted of fresh olive and artichoke and was creamy and mild, a reflection of low polyphenol levels. “You want to taste olive oils just like wine” said Alina, “starting from the mildest and working your way up to the most robust.” The California Frantoio Verde, measuring 728 polyphenols at crush, was robust and exhibited bitter and peppery characteristics as well as a more more intense finish than the first two. Polyphenols (heart-healthy antioxidants) are not found in processed or refined olive oils due to heat decomposition, but no labeling laws require makers to divulge polyphenol levels, or free fatty acids or oleic acids for that matter.

Alina will be leading an olive oil tasting and pairing event for Fairfield Green Food Guide readers on Feburary 2.

Special “agrumato” oils made from crushing olives with whole, fresh native citrus fruits including blood oranges, lemons or Persian limes are a beautiful expression of a region and so versatile they’ll surely become pantry staples. Oils infused with herbs and spices, like Milanese Gremolata made from fresh lemon zest, minced garlic, Italian flat leaf parsley and a hint of mint, make gorgeous sauces for pasta, fish and fresh vegetables and are excellent seasonings for roast chicken, lamb, pork or beef. Olivette’s line of fine vinegars includes a rich and intense 18-year-old balsamic vinegar from Modena aged in the traditional Solera system in chestnut, oak, mulberry and ash barrels, a Champagne vinegar from France, and a 25-year-old Sherry reserva wine vinegar from Jerez, Spain. Something we’ve never seen or tried before is Handcrafted Artisanal Honey Vinegar, a 2008 Sofi™ Silver award-winning vinegar that’s both sweet and tart and made from 100% US honey! This vinegar can be used in place of grape-based vinegars in dressings and sauces.

The rise of specialty olive oil retail stores like Olivette is the private sector's way of achieving what the US and Italian governments have failed to do – distinguish real extra virgin olive oils from cheap substitutes for the retail consumer.

Alina has a stack of Mueller’s books artfully displayed in her store and was quick to show us a US report corroborating the author’s claims of widespread adulteration and mislabeling of extra virgin olive oils worldwide. The July 2010 report by the UC Davis Olive Oil Center and Robert Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science at UC Davis was subtitled:  “Tests indicate that imported “extra virgin” olive oil often fails international and USDA standards.” The rise of specialty olive oil retail stores like Olivette is the private sector’s way of achieving what the US and Italian governments have failed to do – distinguish real extra virgin olive oils from cheap substitutes for the retail consumer. Veronica Foods, a leading importer and distributor of premium olive oils based in Oakland, California is the exclusive supplier of extra virgin olive oils and high quality vinegars to Olivette and 200 other stores around the country. Mueller lists Veronica Foods in his book and website as “a high quality source” for olive oils. Mike Bradley, President of Veronica Foods, is quoted frequently in the book and Mueller classifies him as having “among the most encyclopedic knowledge of world oil he’s encountered anywhere” and someone who shares his conviction “that the shortest route to oil quality runs through consumer education.”

Don’t miss our extra virgin olive oil and tasting event at Olivette on February 2. We will schedule a second tasting event to accommodate anyone wait listed.

Olivette

1084 Boston Post Road

Darien, CT  06820

203-621-0643

Alina Lawrence, co-owner and General Manager

www.olivettect.com (under construction)

Facebook:https://www.facebook.com/OlivetteCT

Resources:

Guide to Buying Olive Oil in North America by Tom Mueller, author of Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil. Mueller lists Veronica Foods, the exclusive supplier of extra virgin olive oils to Olivette, as “a high quality source” for olive oils.

http://www.extravirginity.com/great-oil/how-to-buy-great-olive-oil/

By Analiese Paik

Serving poached pears with sweetened mascarpone cheese and chopped nuts turns them into a decadent, restaurant-style dessert.

In 2012 one of our main goals is to help our readers get back in the kitchen cooking seasonally inspired meals for themselves and their families. Welcome to Back to the Kitchen, our seasonal, home cooking series where you will find tried and true recipes and techniques using locally sourced and sustainable ingredients. In this post, you’ll find a simple recipe for stunning and beautiful poached pears that I make every year. Celeriac will be the first seasonal vegetable to be featured thanks to a new contributor to our website with professional training and many years of experience cooking sustainably for her family and private clients. Enjoy the pears and check back soon for more Back to the Kitchen posts.

Poaching pears in simple syrup, wine and whole spices is an easy yet elegant way to enjoy this abundant fall fruit. Poached pears are a fantastic make-ahead dinner party dessert and if you use red wine (please no cooking wine!), you will create the most gorgeous and irresistible, ruby-colored pears. I highly recommend using the fruit wines of Jones Winery and Bishop’s Orchards in this recipe, many of which have won awards. Chill whatever you don’t use in the recipe and serve it with dessert.

Please make sure the pears you select are firm and ripe but not overripe for this recipe. Overripe pears will turn to mush upon being cooked. Poached pears will win over even the pickiest eaters, even kids. Pack leftovers for a special school snack along with some yogurt and granola.

Technique Note: Poaching is the technique of cooking foods gently in a liquid just at the simmering point, not boiling. Try to keep the pears covered in the liquid or turn them often. If cooking a large number of pears, consider reusing the poaching liquid instead of doubling or tripling the recipe.

Ingredient Note: If you want specks of vanilla to appear in your poaching syrup, score the vanilla bean once lengthwise before adding to the pot. An uncut vanilla bean can be rinsed, dried and reused.

Makes 4 servings:

Ingredients:

• 4 local or organic pears (or buy more pears and double or triple recipe for leftovers)
• 1 cup water
• 6 tablespoons sugar or honey
• 1 C red or white wine (Jones Farm’s
• 1 vanilla bean
• 1 long piece cinnamon or 2 short pieces
• 2 star anise (optional)
• 8 oz. rBST-free or organic mascarpone cheese (optional)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
• 1 tablespoon granulated sugar or honey (optional)
• Finely chopped hazelnuts or walnuts (optional)

Preparation:

1. Peel pears, leaving stems intact. You may wish to rub the pears with a cut lemon to prevent them from browning. If using red wine, this is unnecessary.
   

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2. Using the small end of a melon baller, remove cores by scooping from the bottom of the pear and working your way towards the top. Stop when you have removed the seed and surrounding core, leaving the top of the pear intact.
   

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3. In a deep saucepan just wide enough to hold pears in a single layer, combine water and sugar to make a simple syrup by bringing to a boil and melting the sugar.
4. Add red or white wine – use whatever you have on hand or one of the fruit wines from Jones Winery or Bishop’s Orchards. If you are using a dessert or other sweet wine, the resulting dish will be sweeter unless you reduce the sugar a bit. Let it boil a minute or two to burn off the alcohol.
5. Add the vanilla bean, cinnamon and star anise, reduce heat to a simmer, and add the pears.
6. Simmer pears, turning often so all sides cook and color evenly, until tender but not falling apart, anywhere from 15-30 minutes depending upon the size of the pears and their degree of ripeness. Test with a paring knife for doneness; it should give no resistance when you insert it. I recommend turning the pears with a curved plastic spatula or wooden spoon to avoid bruising or mashing the fruit.
7. When done, carefully remove pears from poaching liquid and set aside.
8. Remove cinnamon, vanilla and star anise from poaching liquid. Raise heat to a boil and reduce poaching liquid until it has a syrup-like consistency. If you overcook it and it becomes too thick, just add a little water. Just don’t let it burn!
9. If using mascarpone, either by hand or with a mixer, combine with sugar and vanilla until light and fluffy.
10. I like to serve these warm, perched atop a dollop of sweetened mascarpone, with syrup drizzled on top and a sprinkling of nuts. You may store pears in syrup in refrigerator until ready to serve.

Related articles:

Jones Winery: http://fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com/2011/05/23/connecticut-corkers-jones-winery/

The Estate-Grown Fruit Wines of Bishop’s Orchards: http://fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com/2011/06/21/the-estate-fruit-wines-of-bishops-orchards/

Where is the local-sustainable food movement heading? What trends can we expect to see in our locale and beyond in the coming year? We asked our blog contributors and a few of our friends to weigh in and the results are as diverse as the bounty our local lands and waters provide.

“I see more people than ever growing at least some portion of what they eat in home and community gardens and more home cooks preparing food from local sources (and consummate growth in demand for cooking classes).” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“The organic food category will continue to see double digit growth and higher prices will become evident as we compete for precious land and natural resources. I see strong growth in large landowners leasing a portion of their estates to young farmers (think Speckled Rooster in Westport) to increase local production and provide young farmers with the experience they need without requiring them to buy their own farms.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“There is a groundswell of interest in heritage and heirloom foods (a boon to biodiversity), including cheese made from milk from rare Devon cows (heritage milk cheese), heirloom fruits and vegetables, and meat and poultry from rare cow, sheep, pig, turkey and chicken breeds.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“The high-end specialty food category will continue to see strong growth and new product introductions as consumers slow down and begin to taste and appreciate the unique flavors and sense of place (terroir) reflected in single origin, single varietal chocolates, teas, coffees, olive oils and honeys.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“New and exciting craft beers and micro-distilled spirits will continue to experience huge successes as consumers show preferences for  traditional beverages with interesting back stories. Once-lost crops – like beer hops now being grown by farmers in New York state – will usher in a new era of restoring lost local brewing and distilling traditions.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“Artisan foods, including cheeses, charcuterie, jams, jellies and specialty sauces, will continue to replace industrial choices in the homes of discerning consumers willing to pay more for higher quality, handmade products which showcase the finest local and organic ingredients.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“Pop-up food. Seasonal foods made in small batches. Now you see them, now you don’t. When they’re gone, they’re gone.” Lloyd Allen, The Double L Market, Westport. http://www.doublelmarket.com/

“The trend we’re seeing at the Milkbar is non-caffeinated, ‘natural’ beverages. Herbal tea (hot & cold) and juice consistently outsell coffee. Many customers come in saying, “I’m not doing caffeine anymore,” or “I quit coffee for health reasons.” Perhaps this is because we’ve become known for our sweet herbal tea blends, but 7 out of 10 people ask for tea over any other beverage, regardless of gender and time of day.” Jeena Choi, Babycat Milkbar and MamaCat’s Q Tea, Wilton http://www.mcqtea.com/Home.html

“Diners are jumping at the opportunity to eat at the source. Dinners at area farms have been so successful because we want to know our farmers, see the crops in the field, and enjoy flavors at their peak.  As these farm to table dinners, at the farms and in area restaurants, gain popularity, I believe we will see them offered more frequently.  Getting diners to the source of their food will encourage them to make shopping their farmers’ markets a weekly habit, too.” Liz Rueven, founder Kosher Like Me, www.kosherlikeme.com

Naked Wine. “This past year, I have noticed more wineries producing wines that have been made with less intervention on the part of the winemaker. Many are using grapes that have been grown more sustainably, or have been grown using organic and/or biodynamic methods. Less intervention usually means the wine produced is more reflective of its terroir. One of the most exciting non-intervention trends I have seen is an increase in winemakers using indigenous, or wild, yeasts as opposed to cultured yeasts. Wild yeast is naturally present on grape skins and in the air. Although many winemakers eschew their use due to difficulty predicting the taste of the end product, indigenous yeasts produce wine that is more reflective of its terroir.” Cheers! Renee B. Allen, founder, Wine Institute of New England http://wineinstituteofnewengland.com/

Stop and Taste the Honey…all the honeys. “We are clearly seeing a defined trend in the way customers choose their honey. They are consciously tasting and choosing single-origin honeys by their individual flavor profile preferences. They are also understanding that pure honey is an agricultural product with limited availability.” Marina Marchese, founder of Red Bee Honey, Weston, CT. http://www.redbee.com/

“I’ve seen a huge increase in DIY foods- from make your own bread and butter, to kits for making cheese and pickles at home- even brewing your own kombucha! Another trend is school gardens.  I’m hearing about more and more schools throughout Fairfield County that are putting in small gardens to help teach children where their food comes from.  Kids help plant, tend and harvest the produce, as part of their regular school day.  I love it!” Jennifer Spaide, founder/editor, Simplicious Magazine www.simpliciousmag.com

Consumers are Catching on about Sustainable Seafood “Consumer awareness of poor management of our fisheries is on the rise thanks to responsible educational campaigns from the Monterey Bay Aquarium and Whole Foods. Shoppers are beginning to understand whether or not the fish on their plates (or in the fish case) was sustainably harvested or was caught through poor management practices, and making more responsible choices.”  Betsy Keller, MS RD

What trends do you see? Please share them below, on our Facebook page, or submit them via email to info@fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com.

Honey and thyme roasted carrots is a simple dish to prepare. Make it in bulk for easy meals later in the week.

It’s root vegetable season. Visit any farm stand or farmers’ market and you’ll find heaping piles of parsnips and carrots freshly dug from the earth. Grab a few pounds of each to create a few days’ worth of this vegetable side dish versatile enough to be served as part of a vegan or vegetarian meal or alongside a meat or fish dish. Pick up a bottle of the very best olive oil you can find, some local honey, and fresh thyme. The recipe is that simple.

Simple Roasted Parsnips & Carrots

adapted from a recipe by Danny Boome on the Food Network

Ingredients:

• 8 large parsnips
• 8 large carrots or 12 medium
• 8 thyme sprigs
• local honey
• excellent olive oil
• sea salt

Procedure:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and prepare 2 sheet pans with low sides so the vegetables can brown. Line the pans with parchment or recycled aluminum foil if you’d like.
2. Scrub and peel the root vegetables. Cut off the tops and tips of each. In order for the vegetables to cook evenly, the pieces should be of equal size (which is why I don’t love Boome’s recipe saying to simply halve the vegetables lengthwise). For the carrots, cut them in half crosswise if they are more than 4 or 5 inches long, then cut them in half lengthwise and cut those in half lengthwise again. For the parsnips, cut off any thin tap roots, and cut the middle part off just below the top bulb. Leave the thin tap roots whole, cut the middle part and top bulb as you did with the carrots. You will likely have to cut the top bulb into at least three pieces once you halve it lengthwise to achieve cuts of roughly equal size.
   

   Parsnips ready to be roasted.

   

   The vegetables will shrink after they cook.

3. Lay the carrots on one sheet pan (lined if you like) and the parsnips on another, drizzle with enough olive oil to coat, then honey to taste and mix well with a rubber spatula or your hands. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt and top with a few fresh thyme sprigs. As the vegetables cook, the thyme leaves will fall off the stems and be incorporated into the vegetables without any extra work on your part!
4. Place the sheet pans on the middle and upper oven racks and roast for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, stir the vegetables with a rubber spatula so they cook evenly and return to the oven for another 20 minutes. The vegetables should be just golden and tender. Test one piece to be sure and return to the oven for another 10 minutes if need be.
5. To serve, either mix the vegetables together or serve in separate bowls. Refrigerate any leftovers and reheat in the oven.

Perfect with almost any meal, roasted root vegetables are tender and sweet.

Author Emily Brooks will be signing copies of Connecticut Farmer & Feast at the Winter Farmers' Market at the Norfield Grange in Weston on Saturday, December 17.

Cookbooks are always welcome gifts for the home cook, providing us with new inspiration when we get stuck in a rut. With more home cooks choosing to eat local-in-season, a cookbook that serves up recipes using native ingredients is sure to be a winner. Celery root remoulade, rosemary turnip ratatouille (recipe below!), baked pumpkin, winter day rice, apple soup and carrot bran muffins are a few of the seasonal recipes that author Emily Brooks offers readers in her cookbook, Connecticut Farmer & Feast.

Author Emily Brooks will be signing copies of Connecticut Farmer & Feast at The Winter Farmers Market at Norfield Grange this Saturday, December 17, from 11 am until 1 pm. The Norfield Grange is located at12 Good Hill Road in Weston and there is plenty of free parking.

Connecticut Farmer & Feast introduces readers to Connecticut’s agricultural bounty and those passionate individuals – Connecticut’s farmers and producers – who toil endlessly to bring us our food. The book tells the stories of more than forty of Connecticut’s devoted farmers and artisan food crafters who proudly produce Connecticut’s vegetables, fruits, meats, cheeses, and other food items found at farm stands, farmers’ markets, and top restaurants throughout the Nutmeg State. Emily Brooks tells their stories in elegantly written profiles, showcasing lives rich in both food and history. In addition she includes up to three individually created recipes to feature each producer’s specialty foods. The result is a heartfelt invitation into the lives of Connecticut farmers and the foods they produce through a labor of love.

At the Winter Farmers’ Market at Norfield Grange, families can defy winter while purchasing farm fresh fruits and vegetables, honey, maple syrup, goats milk cheese and yogurt, handmade soap and body products, natural beef and pork, wild-caught seafood, eggs, baked goods, prepared foods, and more. Visit the Crafters’ Corner, and check some items off your last-minute holiday shopping list with beautiful hand-knit hats, hair accessories, boxwood wreaths and trees, live orchids, custom drawings and paintings, and much more. The Market is open every Saturday, from 10am to 2pm (closed Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve) at the Norfield Grange, 12 Good Hill Road in Weston.

About the Author

Emily Brooks is the founder of Edibles Advocate Alliance (ediblesadvocatealliance.org) and the founder and director of Bridges Healthy Cooking School. Brooks nurtures social entrepreneurs who support local agriculture, sustainable farming, and sustainable food systems as a business consultant. She is the creator of Buy Local Connecticut and is a regular local food and sustainability expert on National Public Radio. She lives in Woodbury, Connecticut.

This healthy and flavorful recipe from Connecticut Farmer & Feast was reprinted with permission and is an excellent make-ahead dish when you’re expecting a crowd. It’s also a smart way to prepare several days’ worth of vegetables for a busy family.

Joe Gazy’s Rosemary Turnip Ratatouille

From Gazy Brothers Farm, Oxford, CT

Serves 6-8

Marinade

• 1/3 cup minced rosemary leaves

• 3/4 teaspoon dried lavender

• 3 cloves garlic, sliced

• 2 teaspoons orange zest

• 2 teaspoons sea salt

• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

• 3 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice

• 3 Tablespoons fresh orange juice

Vegetables

• 3 pounds carrots, halved and sliced

• 3 pounds turnips, diced to the same size as the carrots

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. With a mortar and pestle or in a blender, blend the rosemary, lavender, garlic, orange zest, and sea salt to a coarse paste. Transfer to a small bowl and blend in the olive oil, lemon juice, and orange juice.

2. Pour the mixture over carrots and turnips that have been placed in large (16×9 inches) roasting or casserole dish. Toss to combine. (Note: Lots of air space is necessary for browning, so if the vegetables are piled too high and too deep, use two roasting or casserole dishes as needed, baking them together. Use sheet trays if desired.

3. Bake for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally to rotate the turnips and to ensure browning on all sides. Roast until carrots and turnips have released their juices and are brown and starting to crisp. Serve warm.

Note: This marinade is brilliant with lamb, duck, pork, quail, turkey, or beef. Will marinate up to 3 pounds of food. Marinate meat for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days.