By Analiese Paik

This  guide was created to make it easier for Fairfield County consumers to buy grass-fed meat for preparation at home, and to guide diners to establishments that serve grass-fed meat. Some of the businesses listed below are also excellent resources for a wide variety of local, organic and sustainably-grown and raised foods. We cover everything from CSAs and farmers’ markets to farm-to-table restaurants in this exhaustive guide. Enjoy it and please share! If you have an additional resource you’d like to tell us about, please email us at info@fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com.

Farmers’ Markets (winter only; spring and summer will be updated for 2012)

Greyledge Farm of Roxbury, CT is a premium grower of pasture-raised beef along with pastured chicken and pork. Visit the winter farmers’ markets at the New Canaan Nature Center on Tuesdays and Gilbertie’s Herb Gardens in Westport each Thursday to purchase directly from the farmer. Eaglewood Farms offers natural beef (fed 90% grass and hay, no corn or soy, no hormones or sub-therapeutic antibiotics) and pork each Saturday at the Norfield Grange winter market. Click here for a complete guide to all four winter markets including hours, locations and vendors.

Meat CSA

John Morosani of Laurel Ridge Farm is a grower of 100% grass-fed beef who supplies top restaurants including Community Table in New Preston and Toll Gate Inn in Litchfield. He uses no pesticides or herbicides on his farm and no GMOs (Genetically Modified Organism) are grown or fed to the cows. John makes a CSA delivery the first Thursday of each month to Fairfield; please consult this CSA article for a complete description and subscription instructions. If you live outside Fairfield, John will take custom orders for half or whole cows and add a delivery fee. All in, you still wind up saving 30-35% off retail prices. Your order will be completely broken down into retail cuts, but since he gives you meat from the whole animal, be prepared for lesser-known cuts. If you and some friends decide to “cowpool”, contact John Morosani at john@lrgfb.com for pricing and delivery fees. Laurel Ridge Farm also sells pork and chickens and uses exclusively organic feed.

Specialty Retailers

Saugatuck Craft Butchery in Westport is a whole animal butcher (think oxtail, tongue, and offal in addition to all the regular cuts) specializing in fresh (not frozen) beef, pork and lamb from sustainably run family farms in New York and Connecticut. When buying in quantity, inquire about the meat buying club. The Double L Market in Westport has everything from New York state bison to Vermont grass-fed beef and The Farmer’s Table in New Canaan typically has a small selection of meats from John Boy’s Farm in New York, a “beyond organic” farm. Nature’s Temptations in Ridgefield sells 100% grass-fed beef fromVermont,  The Pantry in Fairfield sells NY strip steaks from Australia that are 100% grass-fed (that’s a lot of food miles though!) and Palmer’s Market in Darien carries 100% grass-fed filet mignon and strip steaks, also from Australia (ditto on the food miles!).

Supermarkets

Whole Foods Markets sell a variety of New England and other US grass-fed beef products that have humane ratings on them, some of which are organic. Mrs. Greens Natural Markets sell Grateful Harvest brand grass-fed beef, which is Certified Organic.

Farm-to-Door Delivery Services

Farm-to-door delivery services are practical and convenient for busy families. Order online and they’ll deliver to your door. Offerings change week to week as the season’s change. Connecticut Farm Fresh Express serves all of CT and sells exclusively CT Grown and made foods, Graze (Fairfield County only) specializes in VT Grown and made foods, Concierge Foods (Stamford, Greenwich, New Canaan only) sells local, farm-fresh and sustainable foods and now sources from at least two Connecticut farms (Chef Alvarez will also cater your private party), Mike’s Organic Delivery (Stamford, Greenwich, Darien only) focuses on market baskets from small, sustainably run NY farms.

Dining Out

Fairfield County has watched the number of farm-to-table restaurants grow over the last year, and there are more to come. Bill Taibe, celebrated chef/owner of LeFarm in Westport and a James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Semifinalist for Best Chef Northeast, has just opened The Whelk, a new seafood eatery (that also serves meat) in Saugatuck Center directly across from Saugatuck Craft Butchery. Chef Brian Lewis, best known for his collaboration with Richard Gere and Carey Lowell in creating the Bedford Post, will be opening Elm in New Canaan in early 2012. Chef Lewis describes his modern American cuisine as rooted in tradition and inspired by the seasons. Our listings will be updated to reflect new openings. Vegetarian and vegan restaurants can be found in our Town Guides.

Eateries serving farm-to-table and/or organic food and drink, from fast food to fine dining:

• Boxcar Cantina (Green Restaurant Certified), Greenwich, Southwestern food, also a regular lunch vendor at the Westport farmers’ market
• LeFarm, Westport (innovative local farm-to-table cuisine; Chef Bill Taibe is a James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Semifinalist for Best Chef Northeast)
• The Whelk (cutting edge seafood eatery on the SautatuckRiver, Chef/restaurateur Bill Taibe’s new restaurant in Saugatuck Center)
• Farmer’s Table, New Canaan (Southwestern casual fare made with local meats and vegetables; features in-store mini farmers’ market).
• Harvest Supper, New Canaan (seasonal farm-to-table, named one of top 4 chefs in New Canaan by Patch in 5/11)
• Schoolhouse at Cannondale, Wilton (elegant and refined regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• The Dressing Room, Westport (white tablecloth regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• The Boathouse at Saugatuck, Westport (refined regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• The Filling Station, New Canaan (hamburgers, hot dogs and sloppy joes made with organic raised beef from local farms, organic French fries, and hormone free & anti biotic free milkshakes)
• Elevation Burger, Rye Brook, NY (100% grass-fed, free-range, Certified Organic beef burgers, French fries cooked in olive oil, veggie burgers and grilled cheese sandwiches. Franchisee Daniel Magnus will be opening 7 locations in Westchester and Fairfield counties.
• Napa & Co., Stamford (“innovative wine country cuisine made from organic, farm-fresh, seasonal ingredients”)
• Sugar & Olives, (Green Restaurant Certified) Norwalk (local, sustainable farm-sourced ingredients for a seasonal menu)
• Restaurant North, Armonk (refined farm-to-table new American fare)
• Tarry Lodge, Westport & Port Chester (Green Restaurant Certified; some sourcing from local farms, sustainably farmed ingredients)
• Artisan, Southport, (“seasonally inspired” New England cuisine)
• The Perennial Chef, Ridgefield & Bedford, prepared foods and catering using their own organically-grown vegetables, locally sourced ingredients and sustainable seafood.
• The Organic Market, Westport (also has a lunch counter, hot buffet and seating area). 285 Post Road East Westport, CT 06880-3613 - (203) 227-9007 Note: At press time we could only confirm that this meat is Certified Organic but not that it was grass-fed. By definition, Certified Organic meat must spend at least part of its life on pasture.
• Chipotle Mexican Grill, Darien and Fairfield, (a fast-food chain  based on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, organic when possible, and humanely raised) Note: Grass-fed beef may not be served in every location, in which case it is vegetarian fed.

Do you have a resource to share? Please post in the comments below and/or on our Facebook page.

Visit the New Canaan Nature Center each Tuesday in February, between noon and 3 pm, to enjoy a winter farmers’ market in their cozy greenhouse. We’re told there’s a little indoor fish pond to keep the kids entertained. The market may extend past February, so we’ll keep you informed.

Vendors:

Gazy Brothers Farm, Riverbank Organic Farm, Goatboy Soaps, Butterfield Farm Company/promotethegoat.com, Smyth’s Trinity Farm (dairy), Greyledge Farm (pastured meat and poultry), Whistle Stop Bakery, MamaCat Q. Teas, Rauss Coffee, Connecticutly Grown Hot Sauce and Bistro du Soleil.

Lunch:

Walter Stewart’s Market will be catering lunch. Come early to enjoy soup and a sandwich. Some indoor seating is available.

In this photo Abby Yates of Connecticutly Grown, LLC, maker of Hoardable Hot Sauce, is pickin’ peppers in the rain at Gazy Brothers Farm. Alexis Gazy said “She wanted hot peppers, so we picked off the last of the 2011 crop in the pouring rain. What a trip! Alexis, who is market master, also said that “Abby also uses produce from market vendors such as Riverbank Farm, Plasko’s Farm, Vaszauskas, as well as other CT farms. She just loves Riverbank carrots for one of her blends.” Sounds like CT Grown in a bottle!

New Canaan Nature Center

144 Oenoke Ridge

New Canaan, CT

203-966-9577

http://www.newcanaannature.org/programs/adult/index.php#330

Editor’s note: This giveaway was amended on 1/18 to make it easier for more people to participate.

We’re celebrating National Hot Tea Month by giving away 2 Mamacat’s Q. Tea sampler packs. Mamacat’s Q. Teas are hand-blended and packed in Wilton, CT and use only the finest organic herbs, dried fruits and flowers. Using family recipes, the unique blends contain zero-caffeine, zero-calories and can be enjoyed hot or cold, day or night by the entire family. Sampler packs will contain a mix of of Amber Maharani, Casablanca Mist, Emerald Wonderland, Golden Slumbers and Ruby Slippers teas.

Click here to learn more about Mamacat’s Q. Teas and their sister company, Babycat Milkbar, where the full line of herbal teas can be enjoyed hot or cold with a local, artisan treat.

How to Participate:

To qualify entrants must complete item 1 below and abide by the simple rules.

1) Share a comment below about how you enjoy hot tea, especially organic, herbal and decaf teas. Please use the same name or email address you use in items 2 and 3 below so we can qualify you.

Rules:  No purchase necessary. One entry per household. Must be 18 or older and a legal resident of Connecticut with an address that includes a street number (no PO boxes). The retail value of each sample pack is $15.

Two winners will be selected at random from a list of qualified entrants and will be announced on this blog on February 1. Any blog comment submitted under item #1 above, along with the name of the author, may be republished on this website or Mamacat’s Q. Tea’s website. Winners will contacted via email to obtain a mailing addresses and sampler packs will be mailed during the first week of February. Winners who do not supply us with their legal mailing address within 2 weeks of our sending the request will forfeit their winnings.

Editor’s Note: In 2012 one of our main goals is to help our readers get back in the kitchen cooking seasonally inspired meals for themselves and their families. Welcome to Back to the Kitchen, our seasonal, home cooking series where you will find tried and true recipes and techniques using locally sourced and sustainable ingredients.

By Jennifer Spaide

Celery root, or celeriac, is the root of the wild celery plant, a cousin of the celery stalk we all know and love.  Its white flesh is earthy and mildly herbaceous, with undertones of celery, and offers a good source of vitamins and minerals like Vitamin C and potassium.

While it is similar in size and shape to a turnip, celery root’s knobby, gnarly appearance often lands it in the unwanted bin. But given its versatility and ease of preparation,  celeriac deserves a spot in our farmers’ market bag or grocery cart. Celeriac is delicious eaten raw- grated into slaws, salads, and remoulades.  It is also a wonderful alternative (or accompaniment) to potatoes- roasted, mashed, or used in gratins, soups and stews.

This hash is a stepped-up version of the diner standard.  While it’s delicious alongside your morning eggs, it also makes a hearty side dish for brunch, lunch or dinner.

Celery Root & Potato Hash

Serves 4

• 1 celery root, peeled & cut into 1/2 inch dice
• 2 russet potatoes (or whatever you find at the market), peeled & cut into 1/2 inch dice
• 3-4 slices bacon (optional), thinly sliced
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tsp thyme leaves, chopped
• extra virgin olive oil

Place the diced celery root and potatoes in a small pot and cover with cold water.  Add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.  As soon as the pot boils, turn heat off, and drain the celery root and potato in a colander.  Set aside.

Heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat.  Add the sliced bacon and cook until golden and crispy.  Remove bacon bits and drain on a paper towel.  Reserve.

Add the onion to the sauté pan, season with salt and pepper and sauté until translucent, about 3-5 minutes.  Add the garlic and thyme leaves, sautéing another 1-2 minutes.  Then add the parboiled celery root and potatoes.  Sauté until the veggies are browned and tender.   Season with salt and pepper.  Top your hash with the bacon bits before serving.

Variation:  Sauté the sliced bacon in 2 tbsp olive oil, then toss with the remaining ingredients, spread out on a sheet pan and roast for 20-30 minutes, at 350˚, until golden brown.

While it’s delicious alongside your morning eggs, it also makes a hearty side dish for brunch, lunch or dinner.

Jennifer Spaide is a natural foods chef, writer, and mother. Spaide received her Masters in Human Nutrition at Columbia University and attended culinary school at The Institute of Culinary Education in New York City. Jennifer grew up with an innate appreciation for fresh-from-the-garden foods and wants to share that passion with others. Her online magazine, Simplicious, gives readers fresh recipes that are healthy and easy to prepare, bites of tasty information that help bring health into the home, and breaks down complex topics into easily digestible table-talk that even the kids will understand. In addition to her magazine, Spaide maintains a bi-monthly column in the New Canaan Advertiser, and continues to work as a freelance writer and recipe developer. www.simpliciousmag.com.

CT NOFA’s Winter Conference Welcomes Families, Farmers and Foodies

March 3, 2012

8:30 am – 4:30 pm

Manchester Community College

Manchester, CT

The Northeast Organic Farming Association of Connecticut (CT NOFA) announces its 30^th Annual Winter Conference, an important day or learning and sharing for farmers, gardeners, locavores, homesteaders and anyone interested in sustainable living. The conference features workshops (listed in detail below), internationally-celebrated speakers, and the largest local-sustainable food potluck lunch you’ve ever seen. (Yes, attendees are expected to bring a dish to share. No stress; we’ll be posting recipes.)

The 2012 Winter Conference’s keynote speaker is Jeffrey Smith, noted author and speaker on genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and the leading consumer advocate promoting healthier, non-GMO choices. He is the author of Seeds of Deception and Genetic Roulette, and will share insights on the real threats that GMOs pose to local food production as well as to consumers’ health.  A second workshop on GMOs will be hosted by Daniel Ravicher, legal counsel representing CT NOFA and 80 other plaintiffs against Monsanto to legally protect small farms and farmers.

In this video Jeffrey Smith succinctly (2 minutes!) explains why corporate science is wrong when they say GMOs are safe.

If you’re in the mood to be entertained while learning more about GMOs, Rob Herring’s rap video is excellent!

All workshops are taught by Connecticut professionals bringing expertise from the farm, kitchen, government, or non-profit organization dedicated to sustainable living. Learn to grow fruit, garlic, honey, nuts, and mushrooms. Classes on pollination, nitrogen management and soil microbiology are among those that will provide more technical instruction. Sustainable home-life classes include seminars on root cellars, food storage, cooking, household products as well as well as how to make healthy choices in cosmetics. For activists and community organizers, the conference offers workshops in climate change, starting food co-ops, and establishing winter farmers’ markets.

The Winter Conference is a celebration of local foods and farms.  In keeping with this theme, attendees are asked to bring a favorite food dish for the potluck feast.  Local, organic vendors including Sweet Sage Bakery of Madison, CT and Bean & Leaf of New London, will be selling delicious, sustainable treats.  Children are welcome to spend time in the Family Play ‘n’ Chill room.

The CT NOFA 30^th Annual Winter Conference will be held at Manchester Community College, on Great Path Rd in Manchester, CT, on March 3 from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Registration is $50 for NOFA members, $60 for non-members ($35 for students or seniors).  This is a bargain considering the value your receive- a keynote address plus multiple workshops that would easily cost $25 each elsewhere. There is a $5 discount for early registration (before  February 18^th) and an additional $10 discount for those interested in volunteering.  For more information and registration online, visit  http://ctnofa.org/events/CAOC/2012/2012_Winter_Conference.html,  or call the office at 203-888-5146.

WORKSHOPS

Organic Seed vs. Monsanto: The Lawsuit Challenging Patents on Seed – Attorney Daniel Ravicher, NYC

Certified Organic Nutrient Dense Small Fruit – Julie Rawson & Jack Kitteredge,  Many Hands Organic Farm, MA

Wild Bees and Pollination – Dr. Kim Stoner of CT Ag Experiment Station

Root Cellars & Food Storage – Chris Chaisson, Whole Farm Services, VT

Public Act 490 - Joan Nichols, CT Farm Bureau

Nitrogen Management on Farms – Tom Morris, UConn Plant Scientist

Science and Principles of Soil Microbiology – Joe Maggazi, Green Earth Agriculture

Pasture Raised Laying Hens – Brianne Casadei, Exec. Director Terra Firma Farm

Better Choices in Rx, Cosmetics, Household Products – Valerie Cookson-Botto

Raising Garlic – Farmer Wayne Hansen, Wayne’s Organic Gardens

Honey Bees – Marina Marchese, Red Bee Honey

Growing Nuts in Connecticut – Dr. Sandra Anagnostakis, CT Agricultural Exp. Station

Mushroom Growing on a Small Scale – Carol Brzozowy & Jim Peppin, Maggie’s Farm

Biotech Threats to Organic Agriculture – Ed Stockman, Summit Farm

Animal Welfare Approved Certification – Brigid Sweeney, Animal Welfare Approved

The Dynamic History of the Connecticut Forest - Jeffrey Ward, CT Agricultural Exp. Station

Collards & Other Cold Weather Greens for Health & Flavor – Chef John Turenne, Farmer Wayne Hansen and Naturopathic Physician Leigh White

Winter Farmers’ Markets Are Hot! - Winter Caplanson, Coventry Regional Farmers’ Market

Worm Composting Simplified – Nick Mancini, Organic Gardening Simplified

Co-ops Build a Better World: Co-operatives and Food Security - Erbin Crowell, Neighboring Food Co-op Association

How You Can Easily Grow Fresh Greens All Winter - David Zemelsky, Starlight Gardens

Climate Change In Connecticut: What Can We Expect and Do – Jennifer Pagach, CT Department of Energy and Environmental Protection

Raising Dairy Goats and Making Cheese - Paul Trubey, Beltane Farm

Soil Management Techniques – Bryan O’Hara, Tobacco Road Farm

Food as Medicine – Dr. Leigh White, Natural Family Health, LLC

Transition Movement Workshops:

• First:  Transition Success Stories – Tina Clarke & Terry Halwes
• Second: Permaculture and Transition – Cynthia Rabinowitz & Joan Spear
• Third:  Transition: Lighting the Fire for Action – Coleen Spurlock

Lead in Soils – Concerns and Corrections – Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory

Edible School Gardens – Dan Levinson, Green Village Initiative (GVI)

and more to come…

VENDORS & EXHIBITORS

Interested in being a vendor or promoting your organization at our event?  Last year’s conference attracted over 400 passionate organic-minded individuals, and at least the same number are expected this year.   Email CT NOFA for details, print and mail this form, or call 203-888-5146.

Confirmed exhibitors:

Animal Welfare Approved - Alexandria, VA
Barefoot Books - East Granby, CT
Green Earth Agriculture – North Branford, CT
Healthy Cleaning Solutions- Tolland, CT
Land for Good – Keene, NH
Lancaster Ag Products – Ronks, PA
Natureworks – Northford, CT
Progressive Asset Management – Wellesley, MA
Sunlight Solar Energy – Milford, CT
Sweet Sage Bakery – Rockfall, CT
USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service – Tolland, CT
USDA-New England Agricultural Statistics – Concord, NH

FAMILY PLAY AREA

Music, storytime, children’s workshop, hanging out. CT NOFA provide pillows, books, and comfy places for kids to just shlump down and read!

POTLUCK

Chef John Turenne of Sustainable Food Systems and an impressive staff of kitchen volunteers will once again be on hand to pull it all together, making sure hot dishes are hot and salads are dressed.

Please bring a dish to share with everyone—it need not be local food or even organic—do what you can. Email info@fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com if you need help with a recipe or ingredients or just have a questions. Thanks! Put a label on the bottom of the container and claim it at the end of the conference. Please bring a plate and utensils as this event is committed to avoiding waste.

RAFFLE

CT NOFA is accepting raffle donations. Gently used treasures, duplicate garden tools, gift baskets, unused gift certificates or gift certificates for your business (=great advertizing!) are all welcome. CT NOFA Board member Janet Heller will be coordinating this year. Call the office at 203-888-5146 or email.

By Elizabeth Keyser

Bill Taibe has taken to the sea. Known for trekking to local farms to get sustainable, seasonal produce, the chef-owner of the heralded restaurant Le Farm is about to open The Whelk. The new restaurant in Westport will feature sustainable seafood from local and regional sources.

Taibe and The Whelk’s chef de cuisine Dan Kardos recently boarded Norm Bloom’s oyster boat and sailed out into Long Island Sound.  Bloom is a third-generation oysterman in Norwalk who has branded local blue point oysters as “Copps Island oysters” after one of the Norwalk Islands near where he seeds, farms and harvests oysters. As Taibe and Kardos watched Bloom’s crew haul in the harvest, the importance of replenishing the beds was underscored.

For Taibe, sustainability is also about relationships, getting to know the people whose hard, physical labor brings food to his kitchen. “Norm is one of the most humble men,” he says, “I was so impressed with his approach and intelligence.”

Sourcing seafood is not as straight-forward as getting produce from a farm. “Knowing who is raising [the seafood] is hard,” Taibe says. But with Copps Island oysters the source will be “boat-to-table.” “Norm wants us to take them right off his boat,” Taibe says. A direct source for Connecticut lobsters will be Justin Cummings at Nice Tail Distribution (www.nicetaildistribution.com).  Cummings is a “an ex-cook of mine,” who showed Taibe that Connecticut lobsters are nothing to sniff at – they make good eating. “I was impressed with the taste of the Connecticut lobsters. They were super-sweet,” he says. Taibe will supplement with Maine lobsters as needed.

Scallops will come from Stonington, Conn. Taibe will venture farther up the coast to Island Creek Oysters in Duxbury, Mass for their bivalves. Browne Trading Co., a company based in Portland, Maine (www.brownetrading.com), will provide a wider range of responsibly sourced seafood, including “great smoked fish,” Taibe says.

Sunburst Trout Farms (www.sunbursttrout.com) in the mountains of Western North Carolina will provide hot- and cold-smoked trout, which they raise without antibiotics or hormones in pristine mountain water that runs 20 feet per minute – double the industry standard for farmed fish. Sunburst tests the fish to insure that they are free of PBCs, mercury and pesticides.

Right now Taibe’s working on The Whelk’s menu, which he sees as something that will keep evolving.  The food will be the opposite of Le Farm’s rich, meaty sensibility. The raw bar will bring clean, clear flavors. The hot dishes, which Taibe describes as “medium-sized plates,” will bring “different and fun takes” on classics like oysters Rockefeller. Look for variations on Le Farm’s addictive clam butter. At The Whelk it might be poured over fried pork belly.  Many dishes will be cooked on the  plancha – a flattop grill – and seasoned with “spicy flavors, mayo, lemon.” Looking forward, Taibe says “I’d like to get to the point of doing fish charcuterie.” No matter what, The Whelk will evolve. “What it will be three weeks from now will be different from what it will be three months from now,” he says. Meat specials, for instance, could be based on what Ryan Fibiger, at Saugatuck Craft Butchery, just across the plaza, has available.

Produce served at The Whelk will come from the group of local farms with whom he has trusting relationships – Sport Hill, Millstone, Holbrook and Urban Oaks.

Sustainability is a theme in the interior design of The Whelk as well. The Whelk’s window-lined room, which gets sunshine throughout the day, seats 54 and has a spare, industrial-chic design. The view of the Saugatuck River and I-95 spanning it high overhead bring together the sensibility of nature and industry. Inside the restaurant (there will be outdoor dining in summer), a row of high-topped tables down the center of the room are topped with reclaimed white and red oak. They are supported by sturdy metal bases painted dark green. Taibe says they are from an old printing press. Metal stools were sourced through John Weiss of Lillian August, who had them fabricated in Philadelphia.  Custom wood benches were crafted by a carpenter in Rowayton to Taibe’s request for a“English park bench” look. A long white marble bar and a wall of white subway tiles add to The Whelk’s clean look. The dominant work of art is a graphic black-and-white design that turns out to be framed sections of an antique pirate’s flag.

The wine list is overseen by co-owner and general manager Massimo Tullio, formerly of Fat Cat Pie (where he remains a co-owner). “He knows more about wine than anyone,” Taibe says, “And he has a fun, young approach to wine that’s not stuffy.”

Tulio is one of the few new staff members. Taibe finds “like minded people” who follow him from restaurant to restaurant. Kardos worked for Taibe at Relish. Since then Kardos has cheffed at Harvest Supper in New Canaan and at Bar Rosso in Stamford.  Taibe is proud of The Whelk’s “monstrous” gleaming kitchen, a welcome change from Le Farm’s tiny kitchen. And The Whelk’s kitchen has windows. Even the “stunning” dishwashing station has windows.

It’s hard not to imagine that the place will be a hit. How many of his customers will choose The Whelk because the seafood is sustainably raised or harvested? Taibe feels that sustainability is a concern with a core group of his customers. Then, “There’s a percentage who could care less,” he admits, “but there is a percentage of people who are teetering and I have conversations with them. The numbers are multiplying,” he says.

The Whelk will solidify Saugatuck as Westport’s new dining destination. “Fairfield County needs a fun, mature place to go out and be communal,” Taibe says.

“This is a slow approach,” he says, of the new restaurant, “a humble approach. I don’t have all the answers.” One thing can be expected, however. “We’ll try to achieve greatness every day.”

The Whelk

575 Riverside Avenue

Westport, CT 06880

Opening date TBA. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday for dinner. Sundays and lunch will be added as the restaurant hits its stride. No reservations accepted.

By Analiese Paik

Winter CSAs in Connecticut are rather uncommon, principally because most farms don’t produce enough to complete a share. Urban Oaks Farm, a 4-season organic farm in urban New Britain, Conn,. has teamed up with neighboring produce and fruit farmers to offer a 10-week winter CSA bursting with root vegetables, winter greens, and late fall fruit including apples and pears. Although Urban Oaks (UOF) grows some citrus fruit in their greenhouses, demand always outstrips supply. UOF completes shares by sourcing from trusted organic citrus growers.

Any home cook committed to eating seasonally who cannot make it to a farmers’ market or a farm stand will enjoy the convenience of picking up a whole or half share winter CSA from UOF at GreenGourmetToGo. And if you don’t cook, simply can’t make time to cook, or need a way to ease into a flexitarian diet, sign up for GreenGourmettoGo’s CSK (Community Supported Kitchen). Linda Soper-Kolton, chef/owner of Green Gourmet to Go, on a never-ending quest to support healthy eating, will turn your weekly CSA box into ready-to-serve organic, vegetarian family meals. Weekly CSK shares will include vegetarian main dishes, soups, desserts, and treats chosen from a weekly menu. I’m signing up because I want my family to eat more plant-based meals and Linda’s well-seasoned dishes and healthy treats are popular in my house. You can try the CSK for a week to see if it’s a fit for your family, but be sure to give at least one week’s notice when signing up for future weeks so Linda can properly prepare.

Subscribe to the CSA only or to the CSA+CSK. Both optins are picked up at GreenGourmetToGo on Fairfield Avenue in Bridgeport (Black Rock section just over the Fairfield line).

Urban Oaks Farm Winter CSA (Community Supported Agriculture)

Each share will contain a combination of the following each week: seasonal root veggies like parsnips, beets, carrots, turnips, celeriac and potatoes, a variety of delicious greens, late harvest fruit (apples, pears) and beautiful herbs to freshen up your winter meals. Urban Oaks combines its own organic produce and what it sources locally and regionally to put together a box of organic goodness to keep you well-nourished even in the darkest days of winter.

• The program runs 10 weeks beginning the week of January 22 and runs through the end of March.
• Order your UOF Winter CSA through GreenGourmetToGo
• Weekly pick up at GreenGourmetToGo on Wednesdays.
• Full share price: $550, enough for a family of four.
• Half share price: $275, great for a family of two to three.
• Deadline for ordering: January 17
• How to order: Call 203.873.0057 or email linda@greengourmettogo.com
  

GreenGourmetToGo Farm CSK (Community Supported Kitchen)

When you participate in this CSK program, your UOF Winter CSA share gets delivered to GreenGourmetToGo where they transform it into delicious meals using additional ingredients and pantry items to complete their favorite recipes inspired by the seasonal contents of the box. You pick up your meals, which will include soups, main and side dishes and snacks and desserts to nourish and satisfy you and your family. A weekly menu is posted on the website soyou can choose dishes based on your preferences or dietary sensitivities.

• The program runs 10 weeks beginning the week of January 22 and running through the end of March.
• Order your GreenGourmetToGo CSK for all 10 weeks or a week at a time, with adequate notice of renewal.
• Weekly pick up at GreenGourmetToGo on Fridays or by special arrangement. Delivery available depending upon location.
• Weekly full share CSK price: $149, enough for a family of four.
• Weekly half share CSK price: $99, great for a family of two to three.
• Deadline for ordering: January 17 for week one orders, weekly notice thereafter
• How to order: Call 203.873.0057 or email linda@greengourmettogo.com
  

In the event you cannot eat all the CSK food, freeze the meals to enjoy stress-free dinners and lunches whenever you want.

Note that the Urban Oaks CSA must be paid in full (through GreenGourmetToGo). It is a commitment and investment in the farm for the remainder of the winter season (that’s what a CSA is all about!). For the CSK service, Linda asks for a minimum of two weeks’ notice to get on the food prep schedule, but in this pilot form over the winter, she is not requiring a minimum commitment or payment in full. She wants you to try the service and see how it works for your lifestyle. How’s that for flexibility?

GreenGourmetToGo

2984 Fairfield Avenue
Bridgeport, CT 06605
203.873-0057 (store)
203.615.8139 (cell)
www.GreenGourmetToGo.com

By Analiese Paik

In 2012 one of our main goals is to help our readers get back in the kitchen cooking seasonally inspired meals for themselves and their families. Welcome to Back to the Kitchen, our seasonal, home cooking series where you will find tried and true recipes and techniques using locally sourced and sustainable ingredients. In this post, you’ll find a simple recipe for stunning and beautiful poached pears that I make every year. Celeriac will be the first seasonal vegetable to be featured thanks to a new contributor to our website with professional training and many years of experience cooking sustainably for her family and private clients. Enjoy the pears and check back soon for more Back to the Kitchen posts.

Poaching pears in simple syrup, wine and whole spices is an easy yet elegant way to enjoy this abundant fall fruit. Poached pears are a fantastic make-ahead dinner party dessert and if you use red wine (please no cooking wine!), you will create the most gorgeous and irresistible, ruby-colored pears. I highly recommend using the fruit wines of Jones Winery and Bishop’s Orchards in this recipe, many of which have won awards. Chill whatever you don’t use in the recipe and serve it with dessert.

Please make sure the pears you select are firm and ripe but not overripe for this recipe. Overripe pears will turn to mush upon being cooked. Poached pears will win over even the pickiest eaters, even kids. Pack leftovers for a special school snack along with some yogurt and granola.

Technique Note: Poaching is the technique of cooking foods gently in a liquid just at the simmering point, not boiling. Try to keep the pears covered in the liquid or turn them often. If cooking a large number of pears, consider reusing the poaching liquid instead of doubling or tripling the recipe.

Ingredient Note: If you want specks of vanilla to appear in your poaching syrup, score the vanilla bean once lengthwise before adding to the pot. An uncut vanilla bean can be rinsed, dried and reused.

Makes 4 servings:

Ingredients:

• 4 local or organic pears (or buy more pears and double or triple recipe for leftovers)
• 1 cup water
• 6 tablespoons sugar or honey
• 1 C red or white wine (Jones Farm’s
• 1 vanilla bean
• 1 long piece cinnamon or 2 short pieces
• 2 star anise (optional)
• 8 oz. rBST-free or organic mascarpone cheese (optional)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
• 1 tablespoon granulated sugar or honey (optional)
• Finely chopped hazelnuts or walnuts (optional)

Preparation:

1. Peel pears, leaving stems intact. You may wish to rub the pears with a cut lemon to prevent them from browning. If using red wine, this is unnecessary.
   

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2. Using the small end of a melon baller, remove cores by scooping from the bottom of the pear and working your way towards the top. Stop when you have removed the seed and surrounding core, leaving the top of the pear intact.
   

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3. In a deep saucepan just wide enough to hold pears in a single layer, combine water and sugar to make a simple syrup by bringing to a boil and melting the sugar.
4. Add red or white wine – use whatever you have on hand or one of the fruit wines from Jones Winery or Bishop’s Orchards. If you are using a dessert or other sweet wine, the resulting dish will be sweeter unless you reduce the sugar a bit. Let it boil a minute or two to burn off the alcohol.
5. Add the vanilla bean, cinnamon and star anise, reduce heat to a simmer, and add the pears.
6. Simmer pears, turning often so all sides cook and color evenly, until tender but not falling apart, anywhere from 15-30 minutes depending upon the size of the pears and their degree of ripeness. Test with a paring knife for doneness; it should give no resistance when you insert it. I recommend turning the pears with a curved plastic spatula or wooden spoon to avoid bruising or mashing the fruit.
7. When done, carefully remove pears from poaching liquid and set aside.
8. Remove cinnamon, vanilla and star anise from poaching liquid. Raise heat to a boil and reduce poaching liquid until it has a syrup-like consistency. If you overcook it and it becomes too thick, just add a little water. Just don’t let it burn!
9. If using mascarpone, either by hand or with a mixer, combine with sugar and vanilla until light and fluffy.
10. I like to serve these warm, perched atop a dollop of sweetened mascarpone, with syrup drizzled on top and a sprinkling of nuts. You may store pears in syrup in refrigerator until ready to serve.

Related articles:

Jones Winery: http://fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com/2011/05/23/connecticut-corkers-jones-winery/

The Estate-Grown Fruit Wines of Bishop’s Orchards: http://fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com/2011/06/21/the-estate-fruit-wines-of-bishops-orchards/

Where is the local-sustainable food movement heading? What trends can we expect to see in our locale and beyond in the coming year? We asked our blog contributors and a few of our friends to weigh in and the results are as diverse as the bounty our local lands and waters provide.

“I see more people than ever growing at least some portion of what they eat in home and community gardens and more home cooks preparing food from local sources (and consummate growth in demand for cooking classes).” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“The organic food category will continue to see double digit growth and higher prices will become evident as we compete for precious land and natural resources. I see strong growth in large landowners leasing a portion of their estates to young farmers (think Speckled Rooster in Westport) to increase local production and provide young farmers with the experience they need without requiring them to buy their own farms.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“There is a groundswell of interest in heritage and heirloom foods (a boon to biodiversity), including cheese made from milk from rare Devon cows (heritage milk cheese), heirloom fruits and vegetables, and meat and poultry from rare cow, sheep, pig, turkey and chicken breeds.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“The high-end specialty food category will continue to see strong growth and new product introductions as consumers slow down and begin to taste and appreciate the unique flavors and sense of place (terroir) reflected in single origin, single varietal chocolates, teas, coffees, olive oils and honeys.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“New and exciting craft beers and micro-distilled spirits will continue to experience huge successes as consumers show preferences for  traditional beverages with interesting back stories. Once-lost crops – like beer hops now being grown by farmers in New York state – will usher in a new era of restoring lost local brewing and distilling traditions.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“Artisan foods, including cheeses, charcuterie, jams, jellies and specialty sauces, will continue to replace industrial choices in the homes of discerning consumers willing to pay more for higher quality, handmade products which showcase the finest local and organic ingredients.” Analiese Paik, founder/editor, Fairfield Green Food Guide

“Pop-up food. Seasonal foods made in small batches. Now you see them, now you don’t. When they’re gone, they’re gone.” Lloyd Allen, The Double L Market, Westport. http://www.doublelmarket.com/

“The trend we’re seeing at the Milkbar is non-caffeinated, ‘natural’ beverages. Herbal tea (hot & cold) and juice consistently outsell coffee. Many customers come in saying, “I’m not doing caffeine anymore,” or “I quit coffee for health reasons.” Perhaps this is because we’ve become known for our sweet herbal tea blends, but 7 out of 10 people ask for tea over any other beverage, regardless of gender and time of day.” Jeena Choi, Babycat Milkbar and MamaCat’s Q Tea, Wilton http://www.mcqtea.com/Home.html

“Diners are jumping at the opportunity to eat at the source. Dinners at area farms have been so successful because we want to know our farmers, see the crops in the field, and enjoy flavors at their peak.  As these farm to table dinners, at the farms and in area restaurants, gain popularity, I believe we will see them offered more frequently.  Getting diners to the source of their food will encourage them to make shopping their farmers’ markets a weekly habit, too.” Liz Rueven, founder Kosher Like Me, www.kosherlikeme.com

Naked Wine. “This past year, I have noticed more wineries producing wines that have been made with less intervention on the part of the winemaker. Many are using grapes that have been grown more sustainably, or have been grown using organic and/or biodynamic methods. Less intervention usually means the wine produced is more reflective of its terroir. One of the most exciting non-intervention trends I have seen is an increase in winemakers using indigenous, or wild, yeasts as opposed to cultured yeasts. Wild yeast is naturally present on grape skins and in the air. Although many winemakers eschew their use due to difficulty predicting the taste of the end product, indigenous yeasts produce wine that is more reflective of its terroir.” Cheers! Renee B. Allen, founder, Wine Institute of New England http://wineinstituteofnewengland.com/

Stop and Taste the Honey…all the honeys. “We are clearly seeing a defined trend in the way customers choose their honey. They are consciously tasting and choosing single-origin honeys by their individual flavor profile preferences. They are also understanding that pure honey is an agricultural product with limited availability.” Marina Marchese, founder of Red Bee Honey, Weston, CT. http://www.redbee.com/

“I’ve seen a huge increase in DIY foods- from make your own bread and butter, to kits for making cheese and pickles at home- even brewing your own kombucha! Another trend is school gardens.  I’m hearing about more and more schools throughout Fairfield County that are putting in small gardens to help teach children where their food comes from.  Kids help plant, tend and harvest the produce, as part of their regular school day.  I love it!” Jennifer Spaide, founder/editor, Simplicious Magazine www.simpliciousmag.com

Consumers are Catching on about Sustainable Seafood “Consumer awareness of poor management of our fisheries is on the rise thanks to responsible educational campaigns from the Monterey Bay Aquarium and Whole Foods. Shoppers are beginning to understand whether or not the fish on their plates (or in the fish case) was sustainably harvested or was caught through poor management practices, and making more responsible choices.”  Betsy Keller, MS RD

What trends do you see? Please share them below, on our Facebook page, or submit them via email to info@fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com.

By Analiese Paik

Just because it’s winter doesn’t mean opportunities to eat food from local farms have all dried up. On the contrary, there are more ways to source local and sustainable ingredients for home cooking than ever before at this time of year thanks to four season farms and plentiful artisan foods. Eating out sustainably can be a challenge, but our list of restaurants, cafes, and coffee shops will help guide you no matter what town you live in. 2012 will usher in at least two new farm-to-table restaurants, and we look forward to covering them here.

Winter 2011-2012 Guide to Eating Green

Fresh winter vegetables

The Saturday winter farmers’ markets at the Granges (Norfield and Greenfield Hill) and the Westport farmers’ market at Gilbertie’s Herb Gardens on Thursdays are THE places to go to find potatoes, carrots, celeriac, garlic, onions, hardy greens and other winter crops. The Double L Market in Westport is a seven-day-a-week source for seasonal vegetables and The Farmer’s Table in New Canaan has a small selection in winter.

Local and sustainably grown meats and poultry

The Saturday winter farmers’ markets at the Greenfield Hill Grange host vendors Greyledge Farm (pastured chicken, beef and pork) and Sankow’s Beaver Brook Farm (lamb). Both vendors can also be found on Thursdays at the Westport farmers’ market at Gilbertie’s Herb Gardens. Eaglewood Farms offers natural beef and pork each Saturday at the Norfield Grange winter market. The Double L Market in Westport has everything from New York state bison to Vermont grass-fed beef and The Farmer’s Table in New Canaan typically has a small selection of meats from John Boy’s Farm in New York. Saugatuck Craft Butchery in Westport is a whole animal butcher (think oxtail, tongue, and offal in addition to all the regular cuts) specializing in fresh (not frozen) beef, pork and lamb from sustainably run family farms in New York and Connecticut.

Local and organic dairy products

The Farmer’s Cow’s rBST-free milk, cream, eggs and ice cream can be found in supermarkets including Stop ‘n Shop and Big Y. Visit the website for a complete list of retailers.

Cheese

The widest selection of cheeses are available at cheese shops like Fairfield Cheese Company, which is dedicated to sourcing from small artisan producers including Cato Corner Farm & Beltane Farm and other distinguished cheese makers from New England. The Saturday winter farmers’ markets at the Greenfield Hill Grange offers cheeses from Sankow’s Beaver Brook Farm. It’s worth asking for their fresh sheep’s milk ricotta for making homemade lasagna, ravioli, tortellini and manicotti. Sankow’s Beaver Brook Farm is also a vendor at the Westport farmers’ market at Gilbertie’s Herb Gardens, along with Beltane Farm, our state’s biggest producer of fresh and aged goat’s milk cheeses. Butterfield Farm sells goat’s milk cheeses at the Norfield Grange farmers’ market each Saturday. Walter Stewart’s Market in New Canaan and The Double L Market in Westport also carry Connecticut artisan and farmstead cheeses. When in New Haven, be sure to head to Caseus, where cheese is both sold at the fromagerie and served in the bistro.

Milk, cream, yogurt

The Double L Market in Westport carries Arethusa Farm’s (Litchfield) milk, cream and yogurt and milk from Smyth’s Trinity Farm (Enfield). Saugatuck Craft Butchery carries an organic, grass-fed yogurt from New York state that’s fantastic. Visit Sankow’s Beaver Brook Farm for sheep’s milk yogurt, both at the winter farmers’ market at the Greenfield Hill Grange and Westport farmers’ market at Gilbertie’s Herb Gardens. Beltane Farm does not milk their goats in the winter so there will be no yogurt until the spring. Take a trip to the Norfield Grange winter market for Butterfield Farm’s goat’s milk yogurt.

Eggs

Eggs are typically sold by various farmers at the winter farmers’ markets, but you’ll want to arrive early before they sell out. The Farmer’s Table and The Double L Market also carry local eggs.

Honey, jam, and maple syrup

Daffodil Hill Growers sells honey and maple syrup and The Herb Basket sells honey, maple syrup and their own diverse line of specialty jams at the Greenfield Hill Grange farmers’ market on Saturdays. Daffodil Hill Growers and Gazy Brothers Farm, two vendors at the Norfield Grange farmers’ market, sell honey and maple syrup. Winding Drive, an award-winning producer of jams made from Connecticut fruit, is a regular vendor at the Westport farmers’ market at Gilbertie’s Herb Gardens. The Double L Market in Westport carries honey from a Fairfield beekeeper, an enticing variety of jams from Red Jacket Orchards in New York, and estate maple syrups from Vermont. Fairfield Cheese Company, Catch a Healthy Habit Café, Michele’s Pies (Norwalk/Westport), Aux Delices (Greenwich/Darien), Plum Pure Foods (Old Greenwich),  Practically Green (Ridgefield), and Jones Winery (Shelton) sell single nectar source honeys and honeycomb from Red Bee Honey (Weston).

Home delivery of local and organic foods

Farm-to-door delivery services are practical and convenient for busy families. Order online and they’ll deliver to your door. Connecticut Farm Fresh Express serves all of CT and sells exclusively CT Grown and made foods, Graze (Fairfield County only) specializes in VT Grown and made foods, Concierge Foods (Stamford, Greenwich, New Canaan only) sells local, farm-fresh and sustainable foods and now sources from at least two Connecticut farms (Chef Alvarez will also cater your private party), Mike’s Organic Delivery (Stamford, Greenwich, Darien only) focuses on market baskets from small, sustainably run NY farms.

Eating Out

Fairfield County has watched the number of farm-to-table restaurants grow over the last year, and there are more to come. Bill Taibe, celebrated chef/owner of LeFarm in Westport and a James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Semifinalist for Best Chef Northeast, will be opening a new eatery in Saugatuck Center directly across from Saugatuck Craft Butchery in January. Chef Brian Lewis, best known for his collaboration with Richard Gere and Carey Lowell in creating the Bedford Post, will be opening Elm in New Canaan in early 2012. Chef Lewis describes his modern American cuisine as rooted in tradition and inspired by the seasons.

Restaurants serving farm-to-table and/or organic food and drink, from casual to fine dining.

• Boxcar Cantina (Green Restaurant Certified), Greenwich, Southwestern food, also a regular lunch vendor at the Westport farmers’ market
• Le Pain Quotidien, Greenwich and New Canaan (source organic ingredients whenever possible and have green business practices)
• LeFarm, Westport (innovative local farm-to-table cuisine; Chef Bill Taibe is a James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Semifinalist for Best Chef Northeast)
• Farmer’s Table, New Canaan (Southwestern casual fare made with local meats and vegetables; features in-store mini farmers’ market)
• Harvest Supper, New Canaan (seasonal farm-to-table, named one of top 4 chefs in New Canaan by Patch in 5/11)
• Schoolhouse at Cannondale, Wilton (elegant and refined regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• The Dressing Room, Westport (white tablecloth regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• The Boathouse at Saugatuck, Westport (refined regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• Health in a Hurry, Fairfield (organic vegetarian food to go)
• Catch a Healthy Habit Cafe, Fairfield (organic, raw food cafe)
• Green Gourmet to Go, Black Rock (organic vegetarian food by weekly order only)
• Bloodroot, Bridgeport (organic vegetarian/vegan restaurant)
• The Filling Station, New Canaan (hamburgers, hot dogs and sloppy joes made with organic raised beef from local farms, organic French fries, and hormone free & anti biotic free milkshakes)
• Napa & Co., Stamford (“innovative wine country cuisine made from organic, farm-fresh, seasonal ingredients”)
• Fat Cat Pie Company, Norwalk (pizza and salads made with organic and local ingredients)
• Sugar & Olives, (Green Restaurant Certified) Norwalk (local, sustainable farm-sourced ingredients for a seasonal menu)
• The Stand Juice Company, Norwalk & Fairfield(organic juice cleanses and casual menu using organic ingredients when possible)
• Restaurant North, Armonk (refined farm-to-table new American fare)
• Tarry Lodge, Westport & Port Chester (Green Restaurant Certified; some sourcing from local farms, sustainably farmed ingredients)
• Artisan, Southport, (“seasonally inspired” New England cuisine)
• West Street Grill, Litchfield
• The Perennial Chef, Ridgefield & Bedford, prepared foods and catering using their own organically-grown vegetables, locally sourced ingredients and sustainable seafood.
• The Organic Market, Westport (also has a lunch counter, hot buffet and seating area). 285 Post Road East Westport, CT 06880-3613 - (203) 227-9007
• Port Coffeehouse, Black Rock, Bridgeport, organic/Fair Trade coffee http://www.portcoffeehouse.com/
• Michele’s Pies, 666 Main Avenue, Norwalk, CT and 180 Post Road East, Westport, organic/Fair Trade coffee from Bean & Leaf, some local ingredients used in her award-winning pies www.michelespies.com

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