By Analiese Paik

Expanding on their beautiful use of local food, Schoolhouse at Cannondale puts local, seasonal produce at center stage with the creation of a four-course, prix fixe, vegetarian tasting menu. For three nights only in February, vegetarians and flexitarians will enjoy Chef Tim LaBant’s haute vegetarian fare, but there’s no need to leave the omnivores at home. The vegetarian menu is being offered in addition to his normal dinner menu.

Book your special vegetarian tasting experience on February 8, 15, or 29; vegetarian prix fixe menus will not exceed $40. Reservations can be made at OpenTable.com, or by calling the restaurant at 203-834-9816.

Schoolhouse at Cannondale

34 Cannon Road

Wilton, CT

(203) 834-9816

www.schoolhouseatcannondale.com

www.facebook.com/schoolhouserestaurant

By Analiese Paik

This  guide was created to make it easier for Fairfield County consumers to buy grass-fed meat for preparation at home, and to guide diners to establishments that serve grass-fed meat. Some of the businesses listed below are also excellent resources for a wide variety of local, organic and sustainably-grown and raised foods. We cover everything from CSAs and farmers’ markets to farm-to-table restaurants in this exhaustive guide. Enjoy it and please share! If you have an additional resource you’d like to tell us about, please email us at info@fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com.

Farmers’ Markets (winter only; spring and summer will be updated for 2012)

Greyledge Farm of Roxbury, CT is a premium grower of pasture-raised beef along with pastured chicken and pork. Visit the winter farmers’ markets at the New Canaan Nature Center on Tuesdays and Gilbertie’s Herb Gardens in Westport each Thursday to purchase directly from the farmer. Eaglewood Farms offers natural beef (fed 90% grass and hay, no corn or soy, no hormones or sub-therapeutic antibiotics) and pork each Saturday at the Norfield Grange winter market. Click here for a complete guide to all four winter markets including hours, locations and vendors.

Meat CSA

John Morosani of Laurel Ridge Farm is a grower of 100% grass-fed beef who supplies top restaurants including Community Table in New Preston and Toll Gate Inn in Litchfield. He uses no pesticides or herbicides on his farm and no GMOs (Genetically Modified Organism) are grown or fed to the cows. John makes a CSA delivery the first Thursday of each month to Fairfield; please consult this CSA article for a complete description and subscription instructions. If you live outside Fairfield, John will take custom orders for half or whole cows and add a delivery fee. All in, you still wind up saving 30-35% off retail prices. Your order will be completely broken down into retail cuts, but since he gives you meat from the whole animal, be prepared for lesser-known cuts. If you and some friends decide to “cowpool”, contact John Morosani at john@lrgfb.com for pricing and delivery fees. Laurel Ridge Farm also sells pork and chickens and uses exclusively organic feed.

Specialty Retailers

Saugatuck Craft Butchery in Westport is a whole animal butcher (think oxtail, tongue, and offal in addition to all the regular cuts) specializing in fresh (not frozen) beef, pork and lamb from sustainably run family farms in New York and Connecticut. When buying in quantity, inquire about the meat buying club. The Double L Market in Westport has everything from New York state bison to Vermont grass-fed beef and The Farmer’s Table in New Canaan typically has a small selection of meats from John Boy’s Farm in New York, a “beyond organic” farm. Nature’s Temptations in Ridgefield sells 100% grass-fed beef fromVermont,  The Pantry in Fairfield sells NY strip steaks from Australia that are 100% grass-fed (that’s a lot of food miles though!) and Palmer’s Market in Darien carries 100% grass-fed filet mignon and strip steaks, also from Australia (ditto on the food miles!).

Supermarkets

Whole Foods Markets sell a variety of New England and other US grass-fed beef products that have humane ratings on them, some of which are organic. Mrs. Greens Natural Markets sell Grateful Harvest brand grass-fed beef, which is Certified Organic.

Farm-to-Door Delivery Services

Farm-to-door delivery services are practical and convenient for busy families. Order online and they’ll deliver to your door. Offerings change week to week as the season’s change. Connecticut Farm Fresh Express serves all of CT and sells exclusively CT Grown and made foods, Graze (Fairfield County only) specializes in VT Grown and made foods, Concierge Foods (Stamford, Greenwich, New Canaan only) sells local, farm-fresh and sustainable foods and now sources from at least two Connecticut farms (Chef Alvarez will also cater your private party), Mike’s Organic Delivery (Stamford, Greenwich, Darien only) focuses on market baskets from small, sustainably run NY farms.

Dining Out

Fairfield County has watched the number of farm-to-table restaurants grow over the last year, and there are more to come. Bill Taibe, celebrated chef/owner of LeFarm in Westport and a James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Semifinalist for Best Chef Northeast, has just opened The Whelk, a new seafood eatery (that also serves meat) in Saugatuck Center directly across from Saugatuck Craft Butchery. Chef Brian Lewis, best known for his collaboration with Richard Gere and Carey Lowell in creating the Bedford Post, will be opening Elm in New Canaan in early 2012. Chef Lewis describes his modern American cuisine as rooted in tradition and inspired by the seasons. Our listings will be updated to reflect new openings. Vegetarian and vegan restaurants can be found in our Town Guides.

Eateries serving farm-to-table and/or organic food and drink, from fast food to fine dining:

• Boxcar Cantina (Green Restaurant Certified), Greenwich, Southwestern food, also a regular lunch vendor at the Westport farmers’ market
• LeFarm, Westport (innovative local farm-to-table cuisine; Chef Bill Taibe is a James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Semifinalist for Best Chef Northeast)
• The Whelk (cutting edge seafood eatery on the SautatuckRiver, Chef/restaurateur Bill Taibe’s new restaurant in Saugatuck Center)
• Farmer’s Table, New Canaan (Southwestern casual fare made with local meats and vegetables; features in-store mini farmers’ market).
• Harvest Supper, New Canaan (seasonal farm-to-table, named one of top 4 chefs in New Canaan by Patch in 5/11)
• Schoolhouse at Cannondale, Wilton (elegant and refined regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• The Dressing Room, Westport (white tablecloth regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• The Boathouse at Saugatuck, Westport (refined regional farm-to-table cuisine)
• The Filling Station, New Canaan (hamburgers, hot dogs and sloppy joes made with organic raised beef from local farms, organic French fries, and hormone free & anti biotic free milkshakes)
• Elevation Burger, Rye Brook, NY (100% grass-fed, free-range, Certified Organic beef burgers, French fries cooked in olive oil, veggie burgers and grilled cheese sandwiches. Franchisee Daniel Magnus will be opening 7 locations in Westchester and Fairfield counties.
• Napa & Co., Stamford (“innovative wine country cuisine made from organic, farm-fresh, seasonal ingredients”)
• Sugar & Olives, (Green Restaurant Certified) Norwalk (local, sustainable farm-sourced ingredients for a seasonal menu)
• Restaurant North, Armonk (refined farm-to-table new American fare)
• Tarry Lodge, Westport & Port Chester (Green Restaurant Certified; some sourcing from local farms, sustainably farmed ingredients)
• Artisan, Southport, (“seasonally inspired” New England cuisine)
• The Perennial Chef, Ridgefield & Bedford, prepared foods and catering using their own organically-grown vegetables, locally sourced ingredients and sustainable seafood.
• The Organic Market, Westport (also has a lunch counter, hot buffet and seating area). 285 Post Road East Westport, CT 06880-3613 - (203) 227-9007 Note: At press time we could only confirm that this meat is Certified Organic but not that it was grass-fed. By definition, Certified Organic meat must spend at least part of its life on pasture.
• Chipotle Mexican Grill, Darien and Fairfield, (a fast-food chain  based on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, organic when possible, and humanely raised) Note: Grass-fed beef may not be served in every location, in which case it is vegetarian fed.

Do you have a resource to share? Please post in the comments below and/or on our Facebook page.

By Analiese Paik

Back in 2007 Jonathan Rapp, chef/owner of River Tavern in Chester, and Drew McLachlan, then chef/owner of Feast Gourmet Market in Deep River, recognized the vast, untapped potential of reconnecting people with their food and the land. The two entrepreneurs partnered to establish Dinners at the Farm, a series of plein air, farm-to-table, community dinners held on select Connecticut farms every July and August for the last 5 years. The perennially sold out events are powerful fundraisers for the very organizations working to preserve farmland and create a more equitable food system –  Working Lands Alliance, City Seed Farmers’ Market, and Connecticut Farmland Trust. They’re also a mecca for local food lovers in search of a unique, seasonal meal enjoyed at the source.

For 2012 Dinners at the Farm is adding a third farm, Scott’s Farm & Greenhouses in Essex, and holding dinners there for eight nights in September. July and August host farms will once again be Barberry Hill Farm in Madison and White Gate Farm in East Lyme.

Click here for the 2012 dinner schedule and to pre-purchase your tickets. Now through March 30, all Thursday and Sunday dinner tickets are $100, a 33 percent discount off the regular price.

By Eileen Weber

Since 1993, Chipotle Mexican Grill has been a rapidly growing fast-food chain based on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, organic when possible, and humanely raised. And, that growth has been exponential. In 2000, Chipotle storefronts numbered 300. Today, they are four times that many with over 1,200 stores across the U.S. and in Toronto, Canada and London, England. Now, there’s one in Fairfield that opened a little over a month ago.

If you don’t know the back story on Chipotle, here’s a brief synopsis: CEO Steve Ells, an alumnus of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, fell in love with the food from the taquerías in the San Francisco Bay area. Looking to recreate that fresh-made, spicy Mexican fare, he opened his first Chipotle Mexican Grill in Denver, Colorado in a former Dolly Madison ice cream shop.

Ells’ twist on the taquería is making fast food—or what has been coined as “fast casual”—based on fresh ingredients from local farms using sustainable agricultural habits. This is Ells’ “Food with Integrity” campaign. Chipotle makes a point of working with farmers that treat their animals and their workers well. (Chipotle works closely with Joel Salatin and his Polyface Farms in Swoope, Virginia. For those familiar with the documentary Food, Inc., Salatin was highlighted for raising his pigs humanely in a natural environment, or rather allowing them to be pigs in all their “pigness.” When his pork is available for use in local Chipotles, the lines are around the block.)

Because of that attitude about food and how it is raised, Chipotle’s revenue has increased by nearly 25% in the last year. “Chipotle’s focus is on running great restaurants, serving great food, and developing a people culture that is giving us better people all the time,” said Chris Arnold, Director of Communications at Chipotle. “If we do those things, the business will be strong, and the stock price should reflect that.”

Sounds good, right? Yes, it is. But there’s a little bit of a catch. When this site’s editor and writer called the store here in Fairfield that recently opened, we got more than a fair share of corporate run-around. The store’s manager was a little elusive and deferred to company public relations. Company public relations answered questions initially, but not follow-ups. And when individual farms were mentioned as places Chipotle did business with, one in particular, Frank Donio & Sons out of Hammonton, NJ, said they had no record of supplying them. They only deal with a supplier to Chipotle.

After repeated attempts, we also were unable to contact the owner of Satur Farms on the North Fork of Long Island, another farm they listed as a supplier. When asked if we could contact other local farms they work with, we were given no answer.

The company prides itself on sourcing locally to the point of saying local tops organic as a priority. “Local is more important than organic,” said Katherine Newell Smith of KNS Promotions, Inc. in Bethesda, MD. Smith’s company is the public relations firm for the Northeast region. “We’re not 100% organic. We get it when we can, but it’s expensive. We can’t charge the customer for a $13 burrito.”

Smith said they try to source within a 100-mile radius but will go as far out as 350-miles if necessary. But what we found was that they are not as local as they seem. When we asked the manager at the Fairfield store where they got their humanely-raised chicken, we were told Springer Farms. The only farm we could find that matched that description was Springer Mountain Farms. They do raise chickens humanely—in Georgia. Not exactly local to Fairfield, is it?

Then again, local food is only as good as the growing season, particularly with vegetables. In this area, our growing season is relatively short in comparison to, say, California or Florida. Chipotle’s Chris Arnold said the company had about 50 participating farms around the country last year and expects more of the same for this year.

“At the moment, our local program isn’t providing much. (The growing season for most of the country is essentially June through October),” he said in a recent e-mail. “We aren’t getting local produce at this time in the Northeast. We will resume our use of locally grown produce as we get to spring and summer and the produce is widely available. But right now, the program is largely dormant.”

Aside from the bureaucracy, the food tasted like you would expect it to. We ordered the carnitas salad, three hard-shell corn tacos with chicken, steak, and barbacoa, and a chicken burrito with rice and black beans. The vegetables were clean and bright with no signs of bad spots or decay. They were chopped consistently and cooked well. The meat was also cooked well, although the steak was a little chewy. The barbacoa—spicy shredded beef—had a lovely, slightly smoky taste. The chicken tasted, well, just like chicken.

The only real “problem” was with the guacamole. We were given a side order that was not only brown on top but also throughout the rest of the cup. It was clearly oxidized before it was spooned into the ready-serve containers. While you could clearly identify its ingredients—avocado, red and white onion, cilantro, it seemed to be missing something. Salt? Lime juice, maybe? Jalapenos? For a Mexican joint, the guac should rock. This guac, however, barely shimmied. (Please note: When we asked for a new container of guacamole, we were given one without hesitation and with no brown spots.)

While the food is well prepared, the portions tend to be large. The burrito, for instance, is not exactly bite-sized unless you consider eating a Chihuahua in tin foil a snack. (One of their advertisements quipped, “Burritos so big you want to ride ‘em!” If that isn’t the truth.)

Although it is possible to get a high-fiber, low-calorie meal, don’t let that fool you into believing everything on the menu is a light alternative. According to a 2003 study from the Center for Science in the Public Interest, a typical Chipotle burrito with rice and beans has about 1,000 calories. That is the equivalent of two meals and has more calories than a Big Mac. The burritos are also high in sodium.

Even so, the ingredients are not filled with additives, food dyes, hormones or antibiotics. You will absolutely be eating a fresh product, no matter what you order.

For more information about their menu items and their policies, check out their web site at www.chipotle.com. The Fairfield location is at 340 Grasmere Avenue in the same complex as Whole Foods Market. The store is open Monday through Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Pop in, fax your order, or order online. Their phone number is 203-255-7665 and their fax is 203-255-7592.

On Saturday, September 17, from noon until 3 pm, over 30 restaurants and retailers in Saugatuck are opening their doors to the public to provide us with a Slice of Saugatuck. Bring the kids and pop in the places that interest you the most for free samples. Check out the festival map to pick your favorite destinations and plan your afternoon.

Among my top picks is Saugatuck Craft Butchery, where founder/owner Ryan Fibiger will be demonstrating how to butcher a pig just in front of his shop (which hasn’t opened yet) at 1:00 pm. Ryan has been holding private butchering demos in Fairfield County as he geared up to open his sustainable butcher shop in Saugatuck Center late this September, but this is the first public demonstration. All their products are expertly hand-butchered and sourced from small family farms in New York and Connecticut that employ sustainable farming practices. Saugatuck Craft Butchery will no doubt become a destination for anyone seeking out the highest quality beef, chicken, pork and lamb, for themselves and their pets. As a nose-to-tail, or whole animal butcher, no part of the animal is wasted, which means lots of premium scraps for fido. To learn more about Ryan and Saugatuck Craft Butchery, read our feature article, The New, Old-Fashioned Butcher.

The Boathouse at Saugatuck can be found inside the Saugatuck Rowing Club and offers beautiful and relaxing views of the Saugatuck River that earned it a “Best View in Connecticut” accolade from Zagat. Chef John Holzwarth is a true farm-to-table chef, giving elegant treatment to seasonal vegetables and artisan food products. Like other fine area restaurants dedicated to serving local and sustainable food, Boathouse serves Westport Aquaculture’s oysters and other seafood. To learn more about the chef and restaurant, read a recent review by Elizabeth Keyser.

Celebrity chef, restauranteur, and author Mario Batali and partners opened Tarry Lodge Enoteca Pizzeria this July after achieving success with their Port Chester location. The restaurant is a “casual reinterpretation of the Tarry Lodge” in Port Chester and sports a wood-fired pizza oven and grill according to partner and general manager Nancy Selzer. Each property in the restaurant group is either already green certified or on target to do so with the help of full-time Green Initiative staff member Elizabeth Meltz. In accordance with the restaurant group’s commitment to source locally as much as possible, Chef Andy Nesser will initially rely on Westchester-based farms that currently supply the Port Chester location, but plans to shop the Westport Farmers’ Market and forge new farm relationships through the CT Dept. of Agriculture’s Farm-to-Chef Program.

Collyer Catering, a regular lunch vendor at the Westport farmers’ market, will be serving samples of a fall soup and guest vendor Planet Fuel will sampling their organic kids’ juices.

Please refer to the festival map for restaurant locations. See you there!

By Analiese Paik and Elizabeth Keyser

Artisan, the new restaurant in the Delamar in Southport, is an instant success. The outdoor bar and patio are filled with fashionistas making the scene. But from our view at an outdoor dinner table, those who’d come for drinks only were missing out on some great food.  Artistan is the creation of restaurateur Rick Wahlstedt (L’Escale in Greenwich, Le Colonial and La Goulue in New York City) and partner Charles Mallory.  Wahlstedt knows the ingredients of a successful restaurant. Artisan is beautiful. The theme of craftsmanship is evident in the evocative design. The muted palette combines classic 18^th-century Swedish furniture with modern elements like wire string chandeliers. Beautiful murals of monumental flowers by Swedish Jonas Wickman decorate walls in the dining room and Tavern.

Artisan’s food is “seasonally inspired” New England cuisine. To express the craftsmanship  theme, executive chef and partner Frederic Kieffer, a native Parisian who was the opening chef at L’Escale in Greenwich and the executive chef at Gaia in Greenwich, uses many local, sustainable ingredients. Keiffer’s food, at its best, also reflects an ingredient-driven simplicity, as we discovered in one of the most surprisingly delicious dishes that we tried at a recent dinner.

It would have been easy to pass over this traditional melon and prosciutto appetizer, but that would have been a mistake. One of the highlights of the evening, the sweet, juicy and highly aromatic bites of melon blanketed with fine sheets of pleasantly salty prosciutto and basil leaf were exquisite with the addition of an aged sweet and sour vinegar from Spain. Made from both the sweet Pedro Ximenez grape and the sweet white Muscat grape, then aged in the manner of a fine sherry wine, this fruity and fragrant vinegar expertly finished the dish without adding any hard edges or dark color to mar the beauty of its soft colors. One member of our group remarked about how the flavors kept unfolding in his mouth.

We started our meal with La Maitresse Sparkling Rosé Brut NV from Provence, France, a dry, sparkling rose with a gentle effervescence and notes of ripe berries and a refreshing finish.

Toasted and split mini brioche buns arrived stuffed with a traditional creamy mix of fresh chunks of steamed lobster, mayonnaise, tarragon and lemon. The meat was delicate and sweet. A seasonal salad of julienned mixed vegetables including carrots, red cabbage, jicama and scallion was simply dressed in mayonnaise and fresh herbs.

Saffron-fennel risotto and Stonington red shrimp was heavenly.

Artisan makes excellent use of local ingredients, including seasonal specialties like Stonington’s royal red shrimp. Stonington Reds, as they are fondly called, are famous for their sweet flavor, tender texture and bright red color. To preserve their texture, Chef Kieffer  cooks them at a low — below boiling – temperature. To preserve flavor, the chef uses cooking water to rinse the shrimp after deveining. The risotto was perfectly executed – creamy but still slightly chewy in texture – and was a fine flavor canvas for the succulent shrimp and mellow yet distinctive fennel. This dish exemplified Chef Kieffer’s cooking style – laser-like focus on quality, technique, and flavor pairings punctuated with the best seasonal and local ingredients.

Enormous sea scallops were seared to bronze and cooked to tender, glossy perfection, and paired with earthy and meaty Hen-of-the-Woods (aka Maitake) mushrooms, roasted red peppers and hefty English peas. One of the star entrees of the evening, it had a refined and beautiful balance of flavors, colors and textures. The wine steward recommended the Miner Family Simpson Vineyard Viognier 2008  from California’s Napa Valley to pair with our fish. The gentle acidity, rich aromas and concentrated flavors make it a food friendly wine, and an excellent choice for fish.

Tender slices of crispy-skinned duck breast were served au jus with a gorgeous medley of seasonal vegetables including bright green fava beans, diced carrots and green zucchini speckled with fresh herbs and flanked by an apple-rutabaga quenelle. Vignamaggio Chianti Classico 2006 from Tuscany, Italy, a fine recommendation of the wine steward, paired well with this duck dish. Made with Italy’s famous Sangiovese grape, this Chianto Classico has a fine overall balance of rich, dark fruit flavors, velvet soft tannins, and pleasant acidity.

Nobody should leave without trying this outstanding dessert. To call it cheesecake is almost doing it a disservice. Instead, think of it as a close cousin to the traditional French Pots de Crème, where a rich and delicately set custard requires the reinforcement of the pot’s walls to keep it together. The single-serve, lidded pot of luxuriously light and creamy cheesecake is topped with a thin layer of hard caramel then sprinkled with sea salt. What’s the secret to achieving this texture? Chef Kieffer cooks it at such a low temperature, he doesn’t need a water bath.

Macerated strawberries playfully turned upside down circled the plate upon which quenelles of house- made, deeply flavored basil ice cream and strawberry ice cream were artfully poised atop rosemary “biscuits.” Each mouthful was a delightful and refreshing burst of bright, cold fruit, creamy ice cream and crisp, buttery rosemary cookies.

Artisan Restaurant, Tavern & Garden at the Delamar Hotel Southport
275 Old Post Road
Southport, CT 06890
p. 203.259.2800

http://delamarsouthport.com/dining.html

Serving brunch, lunch and dinner. Reservations are strongly recommended.

Fairfield Green Food Guide readers are invited take the pledge to go meatless one day a week by joining Meatless Monday, a growing national movement to eat meat-free meals one day a week.  Each week we’ll post a seasonal recipe to support you in your efforts to eat a little greener (and healthier too!). We pledge not to compromise on flavor and to inspire you with new and exciting flavors. Area chefs are invited to submit favorite recipes (you too!) and today we’re featuring a delicious, seasonal dish from organic, vegetarian chef Linda Soper-Kolton, chef/owner of GreenGourmettoGo.

By Linda Soper-Kolton, Chef/Owner of GreenGourmettoGo

Photos by Analiese Paik

During a recent class I was teaching to a bunch of carnivorous police officers looking for healthier alternatives to their current diets, I converted a familiar Italian favorite from meaty to meatless.  Sausage and peppers is a dish loaded with unhealthy saturated fat, calories and has very little that would serve to support good health. In this meatless version, we kick the sausage to the curb and replace it with tempeh while preserving the great taste of the dish. Traditionalists do not use tomatoes in their recipe for sausage and peppers. I’ve included it here as optional since there are some folks who enjoy the dish with the taste of tomatoes.  If you have fresh tomatoes, chop and substitute canned for fresh.

Editor’s Note: This dish is delicious! “Tastes just like sausage and peppers” was my husband’s comment at first bite. Peppers, tomatoes, onions, chile peppers, garlic, basil and oregano are in season, making this a perfect late summer recipe. I was able to reduce the water and tamari by half by laying the tamari slices in a single layer in a wide-bottomed pot. The idea is to have the slices covered with the cooking liquid so they are all evenly colored and flavored. To make ground fennel, gently toast fennel seed in a heavy bottomed (cast iron is perfect) skillet over medium low heat until it smokes, then put it in a spice grinder and pulverize it. The fennel and chili flakes (or fresh chile) give the dish authentic Italian sausage flavors.

Ingredient Notes: Tempeh is a fermented soybean cake that is dense, easily sliced, and a convenient meat substitute. It can also be made from other beans and grains.  Tamari is a dark , complex and very flavorful soy sauce made from fermenting soybeans and little to no wheat (It’s available wheat-free for gluten intolerant eaters). It is thicker and more flavorful than most soy sauces that are typically made with equal parts soybeans and wheat.

Give the tomatoes a quick boiling water bath to loosen their skins. Remove tomatoes from the water after they start to split or within 15 seconds to avoid turning them to mush. Let them cool before peeling, coring and chopping them.

Serves 4

20 minutes to prep the ingredients

25-45 minutes cooking time (depending upon whether you’re using tomatoes)

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 cup organic tamari
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 package organic tempeh (any variety of flavors would work), cut into 1/4 inch strips
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 bell peppers, seeded and de-stemmed and cut into strips (green, red, yellow or mix them up)
• 2 yellow onions, halved and sliced
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano (1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh leaves)
• 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed
• 1 teaspoon dried basil (1 tablespoon fresh chopped leaves)
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or 2 fresh chile peppers, seeded and chopped fine)
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste (optional)
• 1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes (optional) (substitute 1-2 lbs. fresh tomatoes, peeled, cored and chopped)
• 4 to 6 fresh whole grain sandwich rolls (optional)

Wash, trim and prepare all the vegetables and herbs while the tempeh is simmering.

Directions:

1.  In a small pot, combine the tempeh, water, tamari and bay leaf. Simmer for 15 minutes and remove tempeh from pot.

2.  Heat the oil in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add the tempeh and brown on both sides. Remove from the pan and set aside on a plate.

3.  Keeping the pan over medium heat, add the peppers, onions, salt, and pepper and cook until golden brown and tender, about 20 minutes. Add the oregano, basil, garlic, chili flakes and fennel and cook 2 more minutes.

4. Optional step: Add the tomato paste and tomatoes, if using. Stir to combine, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release all the browned bits. Bring to a simmer.

5. Add the tempeh back to the pan and stir gently to combine. If using tomatoes, cook until the sauce has thickened, about 20 minutes. If you are not using tomatoes, stir gently to combine and remove from heat.

Serve in bowls, or if serving as a sandwich, split the rolls in half lengthwise. Hollow out the bread from the bottom side of each roll, being careful not to puncture the crust. Fill the bottom half of the roll with sausage mixture. Top and serve sandwiches immediately.

Linda Soper-Kolton is the chef/owner of
GreenGourmetToGo, a catering and event business specializing in organic vegetarian and vegan cuisine. GreenGourmetToGo’s weekly newsletter includes the week’s prepared meals menu, which is available for pre-order and in-store pick up each Thursday. GreenGourmetToGo is the partner restaurant in Sport Hill Farm’s Farm to Chef Connect Program, a hybrid prepared meals/CSA program available for monthly subscription. Linda is a registered “Chefs Move to Schools” chef, an initiative that’s part of Michelle Obama’s Let’s Move Campaign, and is dedicated to making healthy meals easy, approachable and delicious.

GreenGourmettoGo

2984 Fairfield Avenue
Bridgeport, CT 06605
203.873-0057 (store)
203.615.8139 (cell)
www.GreenGourmetToGo.com

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Meet and greet Connecticut Farmer & Feast author Emily Brooks at Catch a Healthy Habit Cafe on Thursday, July 28, at 6:30 pm. Kindly RSVP for this free event by calling 203-292-8190.

In Connecticut Farmer & Feast, author Emily Brooks beautifully profiles the work of close to 50 Connecticut farmers, sharing stories of multi-generational farm families alongside those of first-time farmers. Eggs, milk, cheeses, honey, fruit, produce, meats and poultry from these farms become the ingredients for more than 85 seasonal recipes. Readers will be inspired to shop at farm stands and farmers’ markets in order to savor the fleeting flavors of the summer harvest. Connecticut Farmer & Feast showcases the bounty of all four seasons, perhaps giving us that extra push we need to visit winter farmers’ markets and nourish ourselves with locally grown squash, hardy winter greens, and root vegetables during late fall and winter.

Official Book Trailer:

Fairfield County Farms profiled in Connecticut Farmer & Feast:

• Ambler Farm, Wilton
• Hillard Bloom Shelfish, Norwalk
• Holbrook Farm, Bethel
• Millstone Farm, Wilton
• Sherwood Farm, Easton
• Shortt’s Farm & Garden Center, Sandy Hook
• Sport Hill Farm, Easton

Connecticut Farmer & Feast

A Video Interview with Farmer Patti Popp of Sport Hill Farm in Easton

Event venue: Catch a Healthy Habit Cafe, 39 Unquowa Road,  Fairfield CT 06824. Parking is available on Sanford Street.

By Analiese Paik and Elizabeth Keyser

Wine Review by Renee B. Allen

New restaurants get all the buzz, but on day two of the Litchfield road trip it was easy to pass up the darling of the moment for the real thing: a long-established restaurant that puts care into the entire experience of its guests.

Yes, we’re talking about the West Street Grill in Litchfield. For over 20 years restaurateurs James O’Shea and Charles Kafferman have been serving excellent New American food with a French/Mediterranean influence.  A day or weekend trip to Litchfield is not complete without a meal at this iconic restaurant, which is known for being a haunt of many well-known actors and writers. O’Shea was once asked why so many celebrities eat there.  “We leave them alone,” he replied.  Actually, he takes very good care of his guests and is known for telling a funny story — or two or three.

The French bistro-inspired atmosphere is inviting, the service is on a professional level rarely seen, but West Street Grill is really about the food.  It was one of the earliest proponents of farm-to-table (“before the term was coined,” says O’Shea), and at a recent lunch, the fresh ingredients were the stars in the room. Executive Chef Jimmy Cosgriff is the star in the kitchen.

The West Street Grill picks up fresh tomatoes, basil, blueberries, peaches, lettuces and arugula from local farms. Dean’s Farm Stand in Fall’s Village provides beets, basil, potatoes and some tomatoes. Waldingfield Farm in Washington, a certified organic vegetable farm that grows a variety of heirloom tomatoes, is another source. Milk from local farms is used to make the house ricotta. O’Shea grows some of his own tomatoes, organically of course, as well as rhubarb, lettuces, and large amounts of herbs like lovage, chives, Russian and pineapple sage, lemon balm, tarragon, horseradish, opal shiso and purple basil. “We are heavy chive and basil users,” he said. He buys all his vegetable seedlings from USDA organic grower Gilbertie’s Herb Gardens. Honey, maple syrup and some other products come from the farmers’ market. West Street Grill also uses Baldor, which sources from local farms from a 300 mile radius.

Lunch was superb.

W.S.G. Locally Grown Tomato Salad with native basil, fleur de sel and 12 year aged balsamic vinegar.

These perfectly ripe tomatoes were a natural starter for a hot day. They were rich in fresh, tomato flavor.

Parmesan Aioli Peasant Bread

Intensely flavorful with a satisfying crunch from the gratin and toasted house-made bread, this has been a house classic since 1990.

Sauteed Spinach

Baby spinach, picked up that morning from a local farm, was wilted and served simply to let the natural flavors shine. It melted like butter in the mouth.

Soup de Poisson, aioli and garden chives.

Rich with roasted fish and vegetables, the soup was hearty and was flavored with fennel. It was topped with an understated aioli; a more forceful aioli would have overwhelmed the soup.

Shrimp Tempura

Gulf shrimp were skewered straight and perfectly cooked so they were meltingly tender on the inside, crisp and slightly golden on the outside. They were served with a refreshing salad of Napa cabbage, mango, cilantro, peanuts, Bermuda onion, carrot and pickled ginger along with sweet chili dipping sauce.

Pan Seared Silken Tofu

Triangles of fresh tofu lightly seared and served with wok-seared vegetables seasoned with scallion, cilantro, pickled ginger. The dish was topped with crispy rice noodles with sweet chili sauce.

Fresh, Wild, Day-Boat, Connecticut Fluke with potato puree, braised leeks, lemon caper coulis

The pan-seared fluke (summer flounder) was golden and crisp, yet so tender it was hard to believe it wasn’t breaded. “Nothing comes between a fish and my chef’s pan,” O’Shea told us. Hidden beneath the fish were ribbons of leek. The herbed potato puree was light and delicate, and was accented by the lemon caper coulis. This dishes hit the mark on both flavor and execution.

Moules Frites

The mussels were steamed in a gorgeous broth of garlic, lemon, white wine and tomato. The broth was clean, delicate and well-balanced. The fries were crunchy and delicious, especially when dipped into the saffon-scented aioli.

“Jimmy’s Ravioli” — Homemade Spinach and Gorgonzola Ravioli with garlic, grape tomatoes, basil, grana padano

Two plump pillows of light-as-air ravioli offered the perfect filling-to-dough ratio so the focus was on the filling, rather than the pasta that enrobed it. The filling’s silky smooth texture came from house-made ricotta from local milk, blended with spinach, gorgonzola and Parmesan cheese. A brothy, delicate sauce of fresh tomatoes, garlic, basil and grana padano created a very refined ravioli.

Dessert

A trio of coconut, raspberry and chocolate sorbets was refreshing and bursting with flavor – pieces of coconut, ripe raspberries, dark chocolate with no bitterness. None were overly sweet, which we appreciated.

Wine Review by Renee B. Allen

Casa Julia Sauvignon Blanc, Chile 2010

Our decadent dining experience began with a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from Casa Julia, a vineyard with a solid, hands-on approach to sustainable agriculture. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc has progressed by leaps and bounds in the past 10 years. Winemakers have been exploring cooler regions in Chile for growing these grapes with phenomenal results. This example from Casa Julia exhibited many of the traits found in these successful plantings. To begin, slightly muted notes of tropical fruits danced on the nose, hinting at the riches to be found within. These tropical notes revealed themselves on the tongue richly, but without the aggression often associated with warmer climate Sauvignon Blancs. The midpalate opened to a wave of citrus which was followed by a crisply acidic and well structured finish. This wine is tailor-made for drinking with seafood and proved a worthy pairing for the Soup de Poisson.

The Vineyard at Strawberry Ridge Ascot Reserve Chardonnay, Western Connecticut Highlands 2008

For our second wine, James O’Shea insisted on what he claimed to be the best wine in Connecticut, the Ascot Reserve Chardonnay from The Vineyard at Strawberry Ridge in Connecticut. The vineyard owners, Robert and Susan Summer, have hired Connecticut vintner Jonathan Edwards to produce this wine. Probably the best traveled wine in Connecticut, from New York to Las Vegas all the way to Macau, the list of venues carrying this limited production wine reads like a celebrity “it” list. The vineyard’s most recent accolade is their production of the wines for the famed Rao’s restaurant in New York. The wine opened with aromas of vanilla, apple and caramel, delicately punctuated with hints of nutmeg. The first fleeting taste to tantalize the tongue was green apple, which quickly yielded to butterscotch on the midpalate from the use of French oak barrels during fermentation. The finish ended with notes of fig and citrus, and tongue-smacking astringency. Although this wine bore little resemblance to the flinty, mineralic, stainless steel fermented Chardonnays most commonly associated with Connecticut, it was an admirable example of the influence the vintner wields over the Chardonnay grape. This wine was a nice complement to the Pan Seared Connecticut Fluke, which might just have been the best fish dish ever to grace this wine taster’s lips.

Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2007

The powerful, classic Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon proved an excellent companion to the Homemade Spinach & Gorgonzola Ravioli. Everything a cab should be, this wine’s bouquet foretold the fruit and spice that awaited the taster. In a beautiful balance of fruit forwardness and medium tannins, black cherry and chocolate, accentuated by pepper, coated the palate, before succumbing to the lingering finish.

West Street Grill

48 West Street, Litchfield, 06759

www.weststreetgrill.com

By Eileen Weber

If you think you know organic food, you don’t know The Perennial Chef. With locations in Bedford Hills, NY, and Ridgefield, CT, the shop boasts fresh ingredients exquisitely prepared for their gourmet take-out and catering menus.

Fairfield Green Food Guide popped in for a taste this week to see what all the fuss was about—and there’s fuss for good reason. A significant portion of the ingredients they use are organically grown in their own garden and greenhouse. Other ingredients that haven’t been grown personally are purveyed as locally as possible.

Chef Michael Williams, whose culinary background includes the French Culinary Institute in New York City, works with his sister Leslie and their business partner, Françoise Jarry. While Françoise can thank her French upbringing for her knowledge of good food to bring to the catering side of their business, Michael and Leslie had a different experience. Growing up in Seoul, South Korea before moving to the U.S., the brother and sister team have been surrounded by good food for as long as they can remember. But it was Michael who took it to the next level by going to cooking school.

“I’m a good cook,” said Leslie. “But there’s a big difference between being a good home cook and being a chef. Michael is a chef.”

His culinary training and classic techniques were evident in the perfectly seasoned sampling of foods we tasted. There was just enough salt to flavor, but not so much as to overwhelm the other ingredients or be the first thing you taste. Hormone- and antibiotic-free beef and chicken are tenderly tucked into salads, paired with homegrown herbs, or simply served by themselves. They serve fresh salads that any self-respecting vegetarian or vegan would salivate over: Corn salad; black bean salad; or tomato, cucumber and feta with just a hint of dill. Pastries are made daily—and you must try the macaroons. Their menu changes weekly to accommodate the seasons. If it’s growing right now, it’s on their menu.

The gazpacho was bright, fresh, clean  and quite refreshing on a hot day. The chef’s pedigree was evident in the neat brunoise of cucumber, carrot and bell pepper that flecked the tomato base. The salmon cakes, made from sustainably farmed fish, were plump and succulent with an even fish to vegetable ratio and no added filler or breading. The main ingredient for the goat cheese tart—goat cheese from Rainbeau Ridge’s sustainable farm only 15 minutes away in Bedford Hills– was combined with seasonal vegetables and baked into a delicate and flaky crust. The chicken under brick is to die for! The concentration of flavors was intense.

Ratatouille and green beans rounded out our tasting selection. Each side dish was well executed and, frankly, provided pleasant surprises in terms of freshness and quality. But much of that comes from their philosophy that you are what you eat and what you should eat is fresh, healthy food.

Leslie Williams spoke at length about the preservatives and contaminants that many of us eat without realizing it. Much of what we buy at the supermarket contains genetically modified products. That, she said, is why she’s convinced severe food allergies are environmental.

“I’ve never seen so many allergies,” she said. “I’m convinced it’s the pesticides and the GMOs. It all adds up in your system.”

And that’s why they grow almost all of their own vegetables and compost the food waste. With 16 varieties of lettuce, endive, Asian cucumbers, over a dozen varieties of heirloom tomatoes, herbs and edible flowers, Swiss chard, and kale, you can taste the freshness. And, they’ve just started raising their own chickens for eggs. Now it’s just a waiting game until the chickens lay them.

But while they make every attempt to accommodate different tastes and dietary needs, not everything they use is 100% organic or home grown. They purchase as locally as possible, but in some cases they must buy in bulk. “We go through something like 80 pounds of onions a day,” said Michael. “We couldn’t possibly grow them ourselves because we use such large quantities.”

As he sees it, they must have a practical approach to their business. Organic foods are expensive and that cost, ultimately, ends up getting passed on to the customer. With 1,500 square feet of space combined between the garden and their greenhouse in Bedford Hills, growing their own produce seemed like the more logical choice. The greenhouse allows them to grow vegetables and herbs year round.

“People are becoming more health conscious,” said Michael. “When we grow the food ourselves, we know where it comes from and we can guarantee it’s organic.”

When they use other fresh products like cheese or produce, they like to get to know the local farmers. They not only have a relationship with Rainbeau Ridge, but farms in the Hudson Valley as well. Although Leslie takes charge of growing the food, she doesn’t consider herself a farmer but more of a large-scale gardener. “I have too much respect for farmers to call myself one,” she said.

So the next time you find yourself heading up Route 33, stop off for a quick bite. You’ll be glad you did. If you can’t make it before fall hits, check them out during Farm-to-Chef week, from September 18 through the 24, when they’ll be featuring a special menu showcasing the seasonal bounty of CT Grown.

The Perennial Chef in Ridgefield is located at 449 Main Street. Parking is ample, but making the left turn into the lot at the traffic light is taking your life into your own hands (no left turn signal!). Instead, turn left before the light as you approach The Gap on your right side. The store in Bedford Hills is located at 25 Depot Plaza. Ridgefield is open Monday through Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Bedford Hills is open Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. and Saturdays from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. They are closed on Sundays.

For more information about The Perennial Chef Farm, please visit their blog.